Hakata-Ori edit
Hakata-Ori (博多織) is a traditional Japanese textile produced in Fukuoka prefecture which has the history of more than 770 years.[1] The history began in 1235 (Song Dynasty period, China), a Japanese merchant from Fukuoka prefecture, Mitsuda Yazaemon traveled to China with the buddhist monk, Shoichi Kokushi.[2][3][4] Six years later (1241), they returned to Japan and brought along the technique of producing a textile, which became the origin of Hakata-Ori. 250 years later, Mitsuda Yazaemon’s descendant returned to China (Ming Dynasty period, China) to learn more about production in depth and has been developing the technique[3][4][5][6][7][8], which later become the name Hakata-Ori. The name is a combination of the originated region (Hakata, Japan) and the word "Ori" (weaving).[9] There are two types of Hakata-Ori: Kenjo Hakata-Ori and Mon Ori Hakata-Ori. Kenjo Hakata-Ori is a traditional pattern, represents the idea related to Buddhism beliefs and got influenced by Sui Dynasty period, China. Mon Ori Hakata-Ori is a name for the Hakata-Ori that contains multi-colored designs.[10] Hakata-Ori is most used as Obi which both men and women can wear. As the western culture is spreading, Hakata-Ori now produce in many forms of products. For example, handbag, neck tie, scarf, and wedding dress.[5][6][7][9][10][11]
History edit
The history of Hakata-Ori began in 1235, a Japanese merchant, Mitsuda Yazaemon from Fukuoka prefecture and the buddhist monk, Shoichi Kokushi traveled to China (Song Dynasty period) to learn the Song's traditions such as making manju (Japanese cake), ceramic skills, gold leaf, musk tablets, wheat noodles, and producing textiles.[2][3][4][7] Six years later, they brought along the technique back to Japan in 1241 during Kamakura period (1185 - 1333), and Mitsuda Yazaemon began his textiles business.[3][4][7][8][9][10][12] 250 years later in the 16th century, Mitsuda Yazaemon's descendant, Mitsuda Hikosaburo returned to China to study more about making the textiles during Ming Dynasty period, China. Mitsuda Hikosaburo used the new technique that he learned from Ming Dynasty period and then combined it with the previous technique, which was from Song Dynasty period to master the weaving technique.[5][7][8][9] The improved design is called "Fusenmon" and "Ryujo", which is taffeta-like material that has raised stripe.[2] After that, they have been developing the weaving technique until it becomes Hakata-Ori textile that we see today. The name Hakata-Ori came from the name of the originated and developed region (Hakata, Fukuoka prefecture, Japan) and the word "Ori" which means weaving. It is also the origin of Hakata Obi.[8][9]
There are two types of Hakata-Ori: Kenjo Hakata-Ori and Mon Ori Hakata-Ori. Kenjo Hakata-Ori is used to call textile that contains continuous stripe and represent the idea of "Dokko" (metal tool which abandon the mundane desires) and "Hanazara" (vessel for scattering flower and a plate that is used to burn incense).[2][10] Both of them are Buddhist tool that express the spirit of Buddhist monk and carry the memorial services for Buddha.[2][10] For this type of Hakata-Ori, it is fixed to use only five colors in order to follow the system of Sui Dynasty period, China, where each colors has it owns meaning. Mon Ori Hakata-Ori is a common name that used to call Hakata-Ori textiles that has multi-colored designs.[8][10]
In 1600s, during Edo period (1603 - 1868 Japan), the feudal lord of Fukuoka clan (Chikuzen Province), Nagamasa Kuroda had chosen Hakata-Ori textiles and presented it to Tokugawa shogunate, Lemon Takewaka as tribute.[2][6][7][8][10][11] In fact, the word "Kenjo-gara" (from Kenjo Hakata-Ori) which means offering pattern came from this action.[10][11][12]
In 1815 during Edo period, the textile became popular when the Kabuki actor wore an obi made from Hakata-Ori and stood on stage.[11] The original use for Hakata-Ori is an obi made mostly for men who wear kimono or yukata. Once the fabric made from Hakata-Ori is tightened, it is hard to loosen. Therefore, it was wore a lot by Samurai who needs to tuck their katana (sword) into kimono.[7][9] However, during Meiji period, it slowly changed to an obi made for women.[8][9][10]
Nowadays, as the western culture is spreading, Hakata-Ori now converting to many forms of products not just an obi, such as handbags, phone straps, necktie, card holders, book cover, beach sandals, scarf, coin pouch, wedding dress. [5][6][7][9][10][11]
Characteristics edit
One characteristic of Hakata-Ori is that once the fabric is tightened, it is hard to loosen. The textile is made from thick material and by twisting the thin warps and thick wefts in many yarns together. After that, the reed is used to make a horizontal bump. By carrying the warps to the surface, the pattern is fabricated.[6][8][9][11] There are two types of Hakata-Ori: Kenjo Hakata-Ori and Mon Ori Hakata-Ori.[10]
Kenjo Hakata-Ori (Present) edit
Kenjo Hakata-Ori is a traditional pattern.[11] It is used to call the textiles that has a continuous stripe and represent the idea of "Dokko" and "Hanazara". "Dokko" is an iron club and also an instrument. "Hanazara" is a plate that is used to burn incense. Both "Dokko" and "Hanazara" are related to Buddhism beliefs.[10] In 1600s, the first lord of Chikuzen Fukuoka clan, Nagamasa Kuroda, protected the production of Hakata-Ori and presented it to the Tokugawa shogunate, which became the word "Kenjo-gara" that means "offering pattern".[1][8][10][11] For this type of Hakata-Ori, only five colors are using to follow the system taken from Sui Dynasty period, China. Each colors has their own meaning. For instance, purple is a noble color refers to virtue, elegant, and mystery. Red means courtesy, happiness, and prosperity. Yellow means sincerity, trust, and other people except for the emperor cannot use this color. Blue means honor, calmness, peace. Navy Blue (Dark Blue) means wisdom and solidity.[10][13]
Mon Ori Hakata-Ori (Woven Design) edit
Mon Ori Hakata-Ori is a common name for the textile that contains multi-colored designs.[10] This type of Hakata-Ori has been woven since 1603 - 1868 (Edo period, Japan) and still developing after the importation of Jacquard weaving machine in 1885.[8] Although using the machine for weaving Hakata-Ori is primary, the workers who specialize in knowledge and skill are still necessary in order to check the patterns and threads of Hakata-Ori in the production process.[11]
Production Processes and Uses edit
Production Processes edit
Hakata-Ori's production processes are including four steps: Design, Dyeing, Preparation for weaving, and weaving. Designing is the first process of making Hakata-Ori. The specialists will think of a pattern and the uses of color in the textile that they want to make.[6] They first draw it on the plotting paper. This process is called "Isho" in Japanese.[8] The second process is Dyeing. After selecting the color that will be used, first the raw silk will get washed up by soapy water to clean out luster. Then, the wefts and warps are put in boiling water mixing with chemical dyes or plant dyes. This process requires specialist because the color is sensitive to weather, and the process is called "Ito Kui".[3][6][8] The third process is Preparation for weaving. The warps are put through the hooks in Jacquard loom, which can move the warps in up and down direction by using feet.[3] This process is called "Hatajikake" in Japanese.[6][8] The last process is the Weaving. By twisting the thin warps and thick wefts in many yarns together, the reed is used to make a horizontal bump next. The pattern of the textile is showing by carrying the warps to the surface and becomes Hakata-Ori in the final process.[3] The technique is called “uchikaeshi mitsuuchi” in Japanese.[6][8]
Uses edit
The most common use of Hakata-Ori is for Obi that can be used by both men and women who wear kimono and yukata. In the past, it is used by Samurai who had to tuck their katana (sword) into their kimono since the fabric is durable and hold tight to the body.[7][9] In the beginning, Obi made from Hakata-Ori was mostly for men to use. However, in the middle of Meiji period, Japan, Obi made from Hakata-Ori had changed to be used more by women.[10]
As for the spreading of the western culture, Hakata-Ori now producing in many forms of products. For example, handbags, phone straps, necktie, card holders, book cover, beach sandals, scarf, coin pouch, wedding dress. [5][6][7][9][10][11]
Trademark edit
The trademark "博多織" (Hakata-Ori) belongs to Hakataori Industrial Association. Their trademark is registered on March 9, 2017 with the registration number 5031531. The registered trademark is "博多織" (Hakata-Ori).[14][15] The specify products are silk textile and Japanese cloths that made in Fukuoka city and other 21 cities which used the technique originated in Hakata area, Fukuoka prefecture.[15] Although Sec. 3(1)(iii) of Trade Mark Act says that the collective trademark cannot be registered as long as it contains regional name or product name, if it becomes "particularly distinctive", the problem that there is regional name on the trademark can be an exception under Sec. 3(2) of Trade Mark Act.[14] If not, in order to get the collective trademark, it needs to satisfy the Sec. 7bis(1) of Trade Mark Act instead.[14]
The difference between Sec. 3(2) and Sec. 7bis(1) of Trade Mark Act is that for Sec. 3(2), the trademark should be "particularly distinctive" to the extent that of all people over Japan recognize it.[14] Nevertheless, the Sec. 7bis(1) says that the trademark should be "well-known" for people who live in surrounding area to recognize it.[14] The purpose of regional collective trademark is to protect the regional brands that are not associated with specific commercial origin, but with geographical area.[14]
The problems occurred since there are some other enterprises that do similar business in the same geographical area, and are not a member of association, but using the similar or identical trademark as the one holding regional collective trademark.[14] There are three parties who used the similar trademark as Hakataori Industrial Association and violated the Trade Mark Act. and Unfair Competition Prevention Act.[14] The first party is Nihon Wasou Holdings, Inc., who sells Japanese clothing and other related items.[14] Second party is Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation, who is subsidiary of Nihon Wasou Holdings, Inc. and sells obi (Japanese belt which used the method of Hakata-Ori).[14] Third party is Hakata Textile Products Association, who makes a certificate stamp on their goods using the same trademark as Hakataori Industrial Association.[14]
The second party, Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation had asked Hakataori Industrial Association to be their member so that they can use the same trademark, but they got rejected.[15] In March 2009, Hakataori Industrial Association warned Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation for using the similar trademark as them. As a result, Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation changed their mark from "hakata-ori" to "hakata-obi".[14] In May 2010, Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation asked Hakataori Industrial Association once again and got rejected.[14][15]
Fukuoka District Court solved the problems between them by applying the Sec. 26(1)(ii) (acts of descriptive use), so that Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation can still use the trademark similar to the Hakataori Industrial Association's one but cannot be used as the same previous purpose.[14][15] However, the problem will still remain if there is party who does not want to be the member of an association and using the similar trademark.[14]
References edit
- ^ a b "HAKATA TRADITIONAL CRAFT AND DESIGN MUSEUM". hakata-dentou-kougeikan.jp. Retrieved 2019-05-29.
- ^ a b c d e f "Introduction of HAKATA-ORI「Silktextile」English version/英語版2017.06.21 – 博多織の帯・着物「伝統と革新をお届けする」:筑前織物". chikuzen.co.jp. Retrieved 2019-06-02.
- ^ a b c d e f g acrosfukuoka (2014-09-07), Hakata-ori textiles, retrieved 2019-06-02
- ^ a b c d fukuokaitvEnglish (2012-02-06), Hakata-ori textiles, retrieved 2019-06-02
- ^ a b c d e "Hakata-ori Textiles｜Traditional Crafts｜Fukuoka x Culture｜ACROS Fukuoka". www.acros.or.jp. Retrieved 2019-05-08.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Hakata Ori". Fukuoka Now (in Japanese). 2005-02-01. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Hakata Ori – Experiencing the Traditional Weaving of Fukuoka". TAIKEN JAPAN. Retrieved 2019-05-08.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "KOGEI JAPAN". KOGEI JAPAN. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k "Hakata-ori Textiles | Authentic Japanese product". japan-brand.jnto.go.jp. Retrieved 2019-04-10.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q "HAKATA ORI | Dyeing and Weaving". www.kimono.or.jp. Retrieved 2019-05-08.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Hakataori｜TRADITIONAL JAPANESE CRAFTS OF FUKUOKA". TRADITIONAL JAPANESE CRAFTS OF FUKUOKA. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
- ^ a b Japan, Kyushu Tourism Promotion Organization [. "HAKATA-ORI TEXTILE｜SIGHTSEEING SPOTS｜Kyushu Tourism Information [ Japan ]". Kyushu Tourism Information [ Japan ] (in Japanese). Retrieved 2019-06-02.
- ^ Weaver, Durham (2018-12-01). "Durham Weaver: Hakata-ori textiles". Durham Weaver. Retrieved 2019-05-29.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Hoshino, Masakazu (November 2015). "Comment on "Hakata-Ori": Decision of the Fukuoka District Court 10 December 2012 – Case No. 2011 (Wa) No. 1188". IIC - International Review of Intellectual Property and Competition Law. 46 (7): 907–909. doi:10.1007/s40319-015-0406-0. ISSN 0018-9855. S2CID 154169773.
- ^ a b c d e Hakataori Industrial Association v. Nihon Wasou Holdings, Inc., Hakata Takumi Kohgei Corporation and Hakata Textile Products Association Trade Mark Act, Secs. 3(1)(iii), 3(2), 7bis(1), 26(1)(ii) and (iii), 32bis(1) (November 2015). ""Hakata-Ori": Decision of the Fukuoka District Court 10 December 2012 – Case No. 2011 (Wa) No. 1188". IIC - International Review of Intellectual Property and Competition Law. 46 (7): 900–905. doi:10.1007/s40319-015-0405-1. ISSN 0018-9855.
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