Fendi (Italian pronunciation: [ˈfɛndi]) is an Italian high-end luxury fashion house producing fur, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, fragrances, eyewear, timepieces and accessories. Founded in Rome in 1925,[4] Fendi is known for its fur, fur accessories, and leather goods. Since 2001, Fendi has been part of the “Fashion & Leather Goods” division of French group LVMH. Its headquarters are in Rome, in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana.[5]

Fendi Srl
TypeSubsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1925; 97 years ago (1925)
FoundersAdele and Edoardo Fendi
Headquarters
Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
Quadrato della Concordia 3
00144 Rome
Italy
41°50′13″N 12°27′55″E / 41.83689°N 12.46521°E / 41.83689; 12.46521Coordinates: 41°50′13″N 12°27′55″E / 41.83689°N 12.46521°E / 41.83689; 12.46521
Number of locations
215 stores worldwide (2018)[1]
Key people
Bernard Arnault (Group CEO)
Serge Brunschwig (CEO)[1]
Kim Jones (Artistic Director)
Silvia Venturini Fendi (Artistic Director)[2]
Delfina Delettrez Fendi (Artistic Director)[3]
ParentLVMH
Fendi shop at the Elements, Union Square, Kowloon

HistoryEdit

Early yearsEdit

The house of Fendi was launched in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi (1904-1954) as a fur and leather shop in Via del Plebiscito, Rome.[6] In 1932 Adele and Edoardo Fendi opened a boutique in via Piave; the shop became a popular destination for tourists in Rome.[7]

From 1946, the five sisters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda joined the company in its second generation as a family-owned enterprise,[8] each owning 20 percent.[9] Karl Lagerfeld joined Fendi in 1965[10] and became the creative director for the fur and women's ready-to-wear collections (launched in 1977).[11]

In 1966, Lagerfeld created the company logo,[12] a double F in a square, which would later be the subject of various reinterpretations. Also in 1966, Fendi presented its first high fashion collection, expanding its interests in the United States and Japan. In 1969, its first commercial line of fur was launched, and in the following years, cosmetics and men accessories were released. In 1977, Fendi introduced clothing for the first time, its ready-to-wear collection.[13]

1980s–1990sEdit

In the 1980s, Fendi expanded its range with perfumes in 1985,[7] as well as eyewear, jeans, and home furnishings in 1987.[14]
In 1989, Fendi opened its first United States boutique in New York on 5th Avenue.

In 1994, Paola Fendi handed over presidency of the company to her younger sister Carla.[15] Silvia Venturini Fendi, daughter of Anna, joined the fashion house in 1994 and has since been the artistic director for accessories and co-designer of the women's line alongside Lagerfeld; in 1997 she designed the Baguette Bag, an iconic model that beat all sales and notoriety records.[13]

Sale of controlling shareEdit

Fendi was a family-controlled company until 1999, when Prada and LVMH, the world's biggest luxury goods group, joined to buy 51 percent of Fendi for $545 million; competitor Gucci lost out in the bidding process.[16][17] Under the deal, Prada and LVMH were obligated to acquire any of the 49 percent of Fendi, should the sisters decide to sell.[18] The label lost approximately 20 million euros in 2001 and again in 2002.[19] In 2002, Prada agreed to sell its 25.5 percent stake to LVMH for $265 million.[20] In 2002, LVMH acquired an additional 15.9 percent of the company.[21] Carla Fendi, a member of the founding family, continued to act as chairwoman and a minority owner until 2008.[22]

On 19 October 2007, Fendi chose the Great Wall of China to present its spring-summer collection and with 88 models, the first fashion show there.[23][24][25]

In 2009, Silvia Venturini Fendi created the Peekaboo bag, achieving a success comparable to the Baguette Bag.[26][27]

In 2010, the Fendi Kids label made its debut in Spring/Summer 2011.[28] The same year, Fendi launched a new fragrance – Fan di Fendi – before discontinuing its fragrances in 2015.[29]

2010sEdit

In 2014, Fendi started making plans to use drones to show its catwalk fashions.[30] From 2013 until 2021, the company had a brand licensing agreement with Safilo for the design, production and worldwide distribution of Fendi sunglasses and optical frames.[31]

In 2015, Fendi celebrated fifty years of business with Karl Lagerfeld and organized its first haute couture fashion show dedicated to furs, Haute Fourrure, at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris.[32][33] Later the brand celebrated its 90th anniversary with a fashion show at the Trevi fountain in Rome[34][35] and planned to move its headquarters to Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana,[36] paying 2.8 million euros per annum to occupy the space;[37] Fendi instead opened a hotel and its largest store at the location in 2016.[38]

In 2017, Fendi released a customization shop in collaboration with e-commerce platform Farfetch for made-to-order handbag designs.[39]

Recent developmentsEdit

By 2018, Fendi crossed the 1 billion euro ($1.2 billion) threshold in annual sales[40] and had 3,000 employees worldwide, including around 400 in specialist leather and fur ateliers in Italy, and operated a network of 215 stores.[41]

In September 2020, English designer Kim Jones was announced as artistic director of Fendi's women's collection, formerly occupied by Lagerfeld.[42]

In 2021, Fendi ended its partnership with Safilo and entered into an agreement with LVMH-owned Thelios to create, produce, and distribute its eyewear collection.[43]

Fendi Casa terminated its collaboration with licensee Luxury Living and instead partnered with Design Holding, jointly controlled by Investindustrial and The Carlyle Group, on creating Fashion Furniture Design (FF Design) to produce and distribute Fendi Casa.[44][45]

Artistic directorsEdit

After 2019 Karl Lagerfeld direction (1965-2019), Silvia Venturini Fendi took over both the men's and women's collections. From September 2020, the women's collection was entrusted to Kim Jones, former stylist for the Dior men's collection, who was appointed artistic director of couture and womenswear. Silvia Venturini remains artistic director of accessories and menswear.[46] Jones' debut collection was for Fall / Winter 2021/2022.[47]
In 2021 Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi’s daughter, was appointed artistic director of jewelry.

CinemaEdit

Fendi has often collaborated with cinema; the maison has designed the clothes for Once Upon a Time in America, Evita and The Royal Tenenbaums.[48][49]
Many famous film directors in the 1970s, including Luchino Visconti, Federico Fellini, Franco Zeffirelli, and Mauro Bolognini, chose Fendi furs for their characters.[50] Fendi has also dressed Sophia Loren, Diana Ross, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Soraya, and Liza Minnelli.[51]

CampaignsEdit

Lagerfeld himself was responsible for the photography of Fendi's ad campaigns before his death; since then, Fendi has used Nick Knight,[52] Craig McDean[53] and Steven Meisel.[54]

PhilanthropyEdit

In 2013, Fendi pledged more than 2 million euros to sponsor projects, including a clean-up of the Quattro Fontane[55] and the restoration of the Trevi Fountain in Rome, and held the company's 90th anniversary show over the fountain using a plexiglas floor.[56][57] In 2018, Fendi signed a partnership with the Galleria Borghese to support the museum's exhibitions for the following three years.[58] In 2019, it committed 2.5 million euros to restore the Temple of Venus and Roma, when it held its couture show at the site.[59]

In 2021, Fendi completed the restoration of Rome’s Temple of Venus, the largest building in ancient Rome.[60]

ControversyEdit

Fendi sued Burlington in 1986 for selling counterfeit handbags, and filed a new lawsuit in 2006 after concluding the company was violating the injunction. In 2010, a U.S. Magistrate recommended that Burlington pay Fendi just over $5.6 million in damages, attorney's fees and costs to settle a dispute dating to 1986 over the alleged sale of counterfeit Fendi-branded leather goods. Burlington subsequently agreed to pay $10.05 million.[61]

Also in 2010, Fendi reached a $2.5 million settlement with the former parent company of Filene's Basement to resolve counterfeiting claims.[62]

ReferencesEdit

  1. ^ a b Sudip Kar-Gupta and Sarah White (February 20, 2018), LVMH taps Dior's Brunschwig to lead luxury brand Fendi Reuters.
  2. ^ Scott, Fiona Sinclair (14 January 2020). "After Losing Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi Forges on at One of Italy's Most Storied Fashion Houses." CNN. Retrieved 31 May 2020.
  3. ^ Delfina Delettrez Fendi: «My family challenge»
  4. ^ "The History of Fendi". US. Retrieved February 24, 2022.
  5. ^ Fendi Relocates To A Roman Palace
  6. ^ Chevalier, Michel; Gerald Mazzalovo (2012). "3". Luxury Brand Management (second ed.). Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. p. 53 (of 316). ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  7. ^ a b Fendi, 90 anni di storia italiana
  8. ^ "Fendi perfumes and colognes". Fragrantica.com. Retrieved October 24, 2011.
  9. ^ John Tagliabue (October 13, 1999), French-Italian Alliance Takes Controlling Stake in Fendi New York Times.
  10. ^ Findley, Lewis. "The History of Fendi". journal.williamgeorge.com. Retrieved February 24, 2022.
  11. ^ Bergin, Olivia (October 24, 2011). "Karl Lagerfeld to launch new, accessible line". The Telegraph. London. Archived from the original on November 4, 2011. Retrieved October 24, 2011.
  12. ^ Fendi-evolution, mezzo secolo di logomania
  13. ^ a b Fendi rewind, storia del brand che celebra il lusso dell'artigianalità
  14. ^ Luisa Zargani (October 5, 2021), Fendi Previews New Home Collection in Rome Women's Wear Daily.
  15. ^ FENDI INVESTIGATED British Vogue, 2 December 2003.
  16. ^ "Dior, Fendi frenzy helps luxury group LVMH extend its reach". Reuters. July 26, 2021. Retrieved August 4, 2021.
  17. ^ Suzy Menkes (October 13, 1999), Prada and LVMH Join Forces to Buy Italian Fashion House Fendi International Herald Tribune.
  18. ^ John Tagliabue (October 13, 1999), French-Italian Alliance Takes Controlling Stake in Fendi New York Times.
  19. ^ Tracie Rozhon (October 22, 2003), A Struggling LVMH Unit Looks Beyond the Handbag; But Fendi Insists That Leather and Fur Are Forever New York Times.
  20. ^ Prada Selling Fendi Shares to LVMH Associated Press, November 24, 2001.
  21. ^ LVMH Adds Another 15.9 Percent of Fendi Women's Wear Daily, July 9, 2002.
  22. ^ Tracie Rozhon (October 22, 2003), A Struggling LVMH Unit Looks Beyond the Handbag; But Fendi Insists That Leather and Fur Are Forever New York Times.
  23. ^ Seminal Moments: When Fendi Conquered the Great Wall of China
  24. ^ fendi at the great wall of china
  25. ^ China's Great Wall gets first major fashion show
  26. ^ The story of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s Peekaboo bag: from tongue-in-cheek accessory to timeless design icon
  27. ^ Silvia Venturini Fendi Reflects on Designing the Peekaboo Bag, 10 Years Onwards
  28. ^ The Story of Fendi
  29. ^ Stephanie Epiro and Jennifer Weil (February 9, 2009), LVMH Pulling Fendi Scent Women's Wear Daily.
  30. ^ Zargani, Luisa (February 18, 2014). "Fendi Partnering With Google to Livestream Runway Show". WWD. Retrieved February 24, 2014.
  31. ^ Isla Binnie (June 10, 2013), Eyewear maker Safilo and fashion house Fendi agree brand license Reuters.
  32. ^ Fendi's 'haute fourrure' closes Paris couture week
  33. ^ Haute Fourrure 2017: Fendi
  34. ^ Fendi celebrates 90 years with runway show at Trevi Fountain
  35. ^ Fendi celebrates its 90 years at the Trevi Fountain
  36. ^ Stephanie Kirchgaessner (October 22, 2015), Fendi rejects criticism over new HQ in Mussolini propaganda building The Guardian.
  37. ^ Fendi's New Headquarters Are a Fascist Icon Archived 2018-09-07 at the Wayback Machine Blouin Artinfo, July 18, 2013.
  38. ^ Robert Murphy (January 13, 2016), [1] WSJ..
  39. ^ Rachel Arthur (November 29, 2017). "Customized Luxury: Fendi Turns To Digital For Bespoke Handbag Launch". Forbes. Retrieved March 27, 2018.
  40. ^ Sudip Kar-Gupta and Sarah White (February 20, 2018), LVMH taps Dior's Brunschwig to lead luxury brand Fendi Reuters.
  41. ^ Sudip Kar-Gupta and Sarah White (February 20, 2018), LVMH taps Dior's Brunschwig to lead luxury brand Fendi Reuters.
  42. ^ Socha, Miles. "Kim Jones to Design Fendi Women's, Continue at Dior Men". WWD.
  43. ^ Giulia Segreti (July 1, 2021), Fendi teams up with Thelios as LVMH focuses on eyewear Reuters.
  44. ^ Luisa Zargani (May 4, 2021), Fendi Inks New Joint Venture for Home Line Women's Wear Daily.
  45. ^ Luisa Zargani (October 5, 2021), Fendi Previews New Home Collection in Rome Women's Wear Daily.
  46. ^ Kim Jones nuovo direttore creativo di Fendi donna. E continua da Dior
  47. ^ Sorpresa in casa Fendi, arriva Kim Jones
  48. ^ Fendi Studios Celebrates the Brand’s Award-Winning Costumes
  49. ^ The 20 Most Iconic Coats in Movie History
  50. ^ Milan Fashion Week: Fendi on Film
  51. ^ Fendi
  52. ^ Luisa Zargani (January 3, 2020), In a First, Fendi Taps Nick Knight for Spring Ads Women's Wear Daily.
  53. ^ Balance of Opposites: FENDI Fall Winter 2022.23 Collection
  54. ^ Fendace Is Here: Get a First Glimpse of 2022’s Most Anticipated Designer Drop
  55. ^ Rachel Sanderson (January 30, 2013), Brand Italy puts a price tag on history Financial Times.
  56. ^ "Fendi: why the fashion house is investing in Rome's patrimony". The Week. March 5, 2018. Retrieved March 27, 2018.
  57. ^ Roberts, Andrew (June 23, 2014). "Fendi Touts Dolce Vita as Owner LVMH Relies on Brand". Bloomberg.
  58. ^ Luisa Zargani (September 13, 2017). "Fendi Inks Partnership With Rome's Galleria Borghese". WWD. Retrieved March 27, 2018.
  59. ^ Vanessa Friedman (July 5, 2019), Fendi, the Legacy of Empire — and Lagerfeld New York Times.
  60. ^ Salibian, Sandra (December 20, 2021). "Fendi Unveils Restoration of Rome's Temple of Venus and Rome". WWD. Retrieved March 6, 2022.
  61. ^ Jonathan Stempel (October 20, 2010), Fendi, Burlington in $10 mln counterfeiting accord Reuters.
  62. ^ Jonathan Stempel (October 20, 2010), Fendi, Burlington in $10 mln counterfeiting accord Reuters.

External linksEdit