Kenzo (brand)

Kenzo (stylized as KENZO PARIS) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada and owned by parent company LVMH.[2]

Kenzo S.A.
TypeSociété Anonyme / Subsidiary of public company
IndustryFashion
Founded1970; 52 years ago (1970)
FounderKenzo Takada
Headquarters,
Key people
Nigo (Artistic Director)
OwnerLVMH
Websitewww.kenzo.com
Footnotes / references
[1]

HistoryEdit

Kenzo Takada, 1970–1998Edit

Kenzo Takada was born in Japan and moved to Paris in 1964 to start his fashion career.[3] He then became known for using Asian and Japanese influenced style with the construction of European fashion. He started with a 'Jungle Jap' boutique located at Galerie Vivienne and decorated in jungle inspired interior. He began with handmade women's clothing; reportedly, he made his first collection with $200 worth of fabrics bought at a large discount house in Montmartre.[4] The brand became Kenzo after a fashion show in New York in 1976, as the American market considered 'Jungle Jap' too pejorative.[5]

In 1983, Kenzo started designing men and then kids and home collections in 1987, followed by fragrances in 1988.[5]

In 1993, luxury-products maker LVMH acquired Kenzo from SEBP and Financière Truffaut for about $80 million.[6] From 1995, Kenzo also produced Kenzo Studio, a line was produced through a licensing agreement with the Bonaventure Group. While Kenzo developed the line's fashion direction, Studio was sold only in the U.S. and Kenzo retail stores in China.[7]

Later yearsEdit

From 1999 until 2003, Gilles Rosier and Roy Krejberg designed the women's and men's lines, respectively.[8]

From 2006 until 2008, over 100 of Kenzo's stores worldwide were refurbished.[9]

From 2008 until 2011, Antonio Marras served as Kenzo's creative director, overseeing the brand in its entirety.[9][10] By 2011, Kenzo barely broke even, with annual sales estimated at 150 million euros ($197.4 million).[11][12]

By 2017, Kenzo built the accessories and shoe business to almost 30 percent of revenues.[13] In 2019, Kenzo ended its distribution agreement with I.T to take back control of its 35 stores in China via a joint venture with the same partner.[14] Under the creative direction of Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Kenzo launched a line of men's and women's sportswear, titled Kenzo Sport.[15] In April 2021, Kenzo said it would part ways with Oliveira Baptista by the end of his term in June.[16]

In September 2021, Kenzo appointed Nigo as their new artistic director.[17][18][19]

LocationsEdit

Kenzo has expanded rapidly in the time since its first American store has opened, as of June 2021 it now operates 6 locations in the US:

In June 2020, Kenzo unveiled its first American flagship store in SoHo, Manhattan.[22][23]

Additionally it has nearly 145 stores worldwide primarily concentrated in South East Asia, Japan and Europe[21]

Role in popular cultureEdit

The character Kenzo Harper in the BBC sitcom My Family is named after the fashion brand. In 2012, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim unveiled a knitted sweater with a tiger graphic on it for Kenzo's Fall 2012 collection.[24][25] Leon wanted to make a sweatshirt version of the sweater for him to wear.[26][27] Despite initial resistance from Kenzo's design team,[28][29] the tiger sweatshirts became extremely popular, with the initial run of sweatshirts selling out within hours at Kenzo's Paris location.[28] Since 2011, the tiger shirt and clothing designed by Leon and Lim[30][31] has been worn by celebrities and fashion bloggers including Jay Z, Kevin Hart, Beyoncé, Zooey Deschanel, Swizz Beatz, Selena Gomez, Spike Jonze, Joan Smalls, Lorde, NorthernSound and Rihanna.[citation needed]

For the Fall 2014 collection, Kenzo collaborated with filmmaker David Lynch, who mixed the soundtrack for the show and provided a large sculpture.[32]

For the Fall and Winter 2016 collection, Kenzo produced the campaign film The Realest Real starring Laura Harrier, Mahershala Ali, Natasha Lyonne, and Rowan Blanchard, and directed by Carrie Brownstein.[33][34] Also in 2016, Sean Baker (The Florida Project, Red Rocket) directed a short film starring model Abbey Lee called Snowbird for Kenzo SS16.[35]

CollaborationsEdit

In 2016, Kenzo announced its collaboration with H&M. Kenzo X H&M collection was released on 3 November 2016.[36] The fashion house also collaborates with Inglot Cosmetics company, which manufactures make-up products.[37] On 21 March 2018 Kenzo revealed Britney Spears as the face of its new 'La Collection Memento No. 2' campaign.[38] The collaboration, marketed as #KenzoLovesBritney, features a variety of ready-to-wear nostalgic denim pieces for men and women.[39]

See moreEdit

ReportEdit

Loïc Prigent, THE KENZO RENAISSANCE! With NIGO! by Loïc Prigent, Youtube 9 avril 2022

DesignersEdit

ReferencesEdit

  1. ^ "KENZO SA: Private Company Information - Businessweek". Businessweek.com. Archived from the original on 2012-10-24. Retrieved 2013-09-12.
  2. ^ a b c d e f "Kenzo". The Cut. Archived from the original on 2013-04-18.
  3. ^ "Kenzo Takada". British Vogue. 2012-03-26. Retrieved 2022-02-25.
  4. ^ Hebe Dorsey (November 14, 1976), Fashion: Kenzo Grows Up New York Times.
  5. ^ a b Grace Cook (February 1, 2019), Kenzo Takada — the journey from ‘Jungle Jap’ to Kenzo Archived 2020-02-25 at the Wayback Machine Financial Times.
  6. ^ LVMH buys Kenzo apparel maker Archived 2020-06-30 at the Wayback Machine United Press International, August 2, 1993.
  7. ^ Janet Ozzard (September 18, 1995), Kenzo Store Aims To Build U.S. Presence Women's Wear Daily.
  8. ^ Suzy Menkes (September 18, 1995), Gilles Rosier: On to Kenzo International Herald Tribune.
  9. ^ a b Jessica Bumpus (December 8, 2008), The Marras Touch Vogue.
  10. ^ Belinda White (July 12, 2011), Kenzo gets a new design team amid rumours Antonio Marras is headed for Dior The Daily Telegraph.
  11. ^ Matthieu Protard and Astrid Wendlandt (May 21, 2010), LVMH says has no plans to sell Kenzo Archived 2020-06-30 at the Wayback Machine Reuters.
  12. ^ Pascale Denis (January 5, 2011), LVMH names new head of Kenzo Archived 2020-06-29 at the Wayback Machine Reuters.
  13. ^ Kenzo Plots Global Expansion Under New CEO Archived 2020-06-30 at the Wayback Machine Women's Wear Daily, September 9, 2017.
  14. ^ Joelle Diderich (June 14, 2019), EXCLUSIVE: Kenzo Parts Ways With Creative Directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Archived 2020-05-31 at the Wayback Machine Women's Wear Daily.
  15. ^ Emily Mercer (August 28, 2020), Exclusive: Kenzo Introduces Kenzo Sport Line Women's Wear Daily.
  16. ^ Miles Socha (April 26, 2021), Kenzo to Bid Adieu to Felipe Oliveira Baptista Women's Wear Daily.
  17. ^ a b Miles Socha (September 15, 2021), Exclusive: Kenzo Picks Streetwear Guru Nigo as Its Next Designer Women's Wear Daily.
  18. ^ Teen, Vanity (2022-01-23). "Paris Fashion Week Men FW22 Day 6: Kenzo, Wales Bonner, Sacai Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & New Faces Magazine". www.vanityteen.com. Retrieved 2022-02-25.
  19. ^ Testa, Jessica (2021-09-15). "A Hypebeast Comes to the Luxury House". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-02-25.
  20. ^ "About the brand Kenzo".
  21. ^ a b https://m.kenzo.com/eu/en/storelocator
  22. ^ Robinson, Roxanne (2020-06-26). "Kenzo's New Soho Flagship: A Muted Opening In A Still-Recovering New York City". Forbes. Archived from the original on 2020-06-29. Retrieved 2020-07-01.
  23. ^ Wightman-Stone, Danielle (2020-06-30). "Kenzo unveils first boutique designed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista". fashionunited.uk. Archived from the original on 2020-07-03. Retrieved 2020-07-01.
  24. ^ Tashjian, Rachel (2019-06-14). "A Requiem for the Kenzo Tiger Sweater". GQ. Archived from the original on 2020-06-29. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  25. ^ Bumpus, Jessica (2012-03-04). "Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2012 Ready-To-Wear". British Vogue. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  26. ^ Pinson, Laurel (2012-11-21). "Anatomy of a Fad: How Kenzo's Tiger Sweater Sold Out in Two Days". StyleCaster. Archived from the original on 2020-07-01. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  27. ^ Alexander, Ella (2013-09-11). "How Long Would You Wait For A Kenzo Tiger Jumper?". British Vogue. Archived from the original on 2020-06-29. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  28. ^ a b Mdudu, Naomi (2014-03-11). "Kenzo: It began with a simple sweater…". Metro. Archived from the original on 2020-07-01. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  29. ^ Bagley, Christopher (2015-03-19). "Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Talk Style With Takada Kenzo". W Magazine. Archived from the original on 2020-07-02. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  30. ^ "Kenzo in Dubai". Mall of the Emirates. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  31. ^ "About : Opening Ceremony". Opening Ceremony. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  32. ^ Phelps, Nicole (2014-03-02). "Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear: Kenzo". Style.com. Archived from the original on 2014-03-06. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  33. ^ "The Realest Real - Autumn Winter 2016 Collection | KENZO". Kenzo. November 7, 2016. Archived from the original on November 22, 2019. Retrieved 2020-04-18.
  34. ^ Simpson, Ashley W. (September 14, 2016). "Kenzo Premieres Their Latest Campaign Film, The Realest Real". Vogue. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019. Retrieved 2020-04-18.
  35. ^ Hustle, Indie Film (2021-12-07). "Sean Baker's iPhone Short Film: Snowbird - Indie Film Hustle". Indie Film Hustle®. Retrieved 2021-12-10.
  36. ^ Jensen, Nanna Bachmand (2016-06-12). "Kenzo X H&M | Fashion News". Ikon London Magazine. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  37. ^ "About Inglot". inglotcosmetics.com. Archived from the original on 2019-08-06. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  38. ^ Bobb, Brooke (2018-03-20). "Britney Spears On Her Kenzo Campaign And How She Defines Mum Fashion". British Vogue. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  39. ^ Jensen, Erin (2018-03-20). "Kenzo is getting a 'Piece of' Britney Spears, the face of its La Collection Memento No. 2". USA Today. Archived from the original on 2019-06-05. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  40. ^ Klein, Arnaud; Courtois, Marie (1 July 2019). "Felipe Oliveira Baptista quitte la direction artistique de Kenzo". Vogue (in French). Archived from the original on 24 January 2022. Retrieved 28 September 2022.

External linksEdit