Wikipedia

Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.[1][2][3][4][5]

Speed climbing
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates28 May – 3 July 2021
Champions
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenUnited States Emma Hunt
← 2019
2022 →

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.[6]

Overview edit

Date Location Venue Men Women
May, 28–30   Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[7]   Veddriq Leonardo   Aleksandra Mirosław
July, 1–3   Villars, Switzerland Place du Rendez-Vous[8]   Veddriq Leonardo   Ekaterina Barashchuk
OVERALL WINNERS   Veddriq Leonardo   Emma Hunt
NATIONAL TEAM   Indonesia

Records broken edit

See also: Speed climbing § Speed Climbing World Records and Champions
Event Round Climber Location Time Date
Men's speed Qualification   Kiromal Katibin Salt Lake City, USA 5.258[9] May 28, 2021
Final   Veddriq Leonardo Salt Lake City, USA 5.208[10] May 28, 2021

Competition format edit

The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route.

In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.

Overall ranking edit

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men edit

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[11]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1   Veddriq Leonardo 200 1. 100 1. 100
2   Kiromal Katibin 145 2. 80 3. 65
3   Marcin Dzieński 96 3. 65 11. 31
4   John Brosler 81 4. 55 13. 26
5   Dmitrii Timofeev 80 — 2. 80
6   Pierre Rebreyend 59 7. 43 18. 16
7   Vladislav Deulin 55 — 4. 55
8   Merritt Ernsberger 51 5. 51 —
8   Mehdi Alipour Shenazandifard 51 — 5. 51
10   Yaroslav Tkach 50 8. 40 21. 10

Women edit

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[12]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1   Emma Hunt 131 2. 80 5. 51
2   Patrycja Chudziak 120 4. 55 3. 65
3   Aleksandra Mirosław 100* 1. 100 —
3   Ekaterina Barashchuk 100* — 1. 100
5   Anouck Jaubert 94* 5. 51 7. 43
5   Natalia Kalucka 94* 6. 47 6. 47
7   Iuliia Kaplina 85 — 2. 80
8   Capucine Viglione 74 8. 40 10. 34
9   Miho Nonaka 65 3. 65 —
10   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 55 — 4. 55

* = Joint place with another athlete

National teams edit

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:[13]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Salt Lake City Villars
1   Indonesia 503 4. 180.0 2. 323.0
2   Poland 447 2. 267.0 3. 180.0
3   United States 396.8 1. 276.0 5. 120.8
4   Russia 384 — 1. 384.0
5   France 340 3. 207.0 4. 133.0
6   140.55 5. 139.55 15. 1.0
7   Italy 132.5 7. 75.0 7. 57.5
8   Ukraine 130 6. 95.0 10. 35.0
9   Austria 101.8 8. 63.9 9. 37.9
10   85.85 9. 63.0 12. 22.85

Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30) edit

Men edit

38 men attended the event.[14]

Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American John Brosler in the small final.[15][16]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
    Veddriq Leonardo 5.37 5.55 5.42 5.38 5.20
    Kiromal Katibin 5.25 5.49 wildcard 5.35 fall
    Marcin Dzieński 5.90 6.22 5.88 5.77 5.84
4   John Brosler 5.60 5.72 5.98 5.76 6.89
5   Merritt Ernsberger 6.19 7.82 6.13
6   Jun Yasukawa 6.253 6.18 6.23
7   Pierre Rebreyend 6.14 5.94 FS
8   Yaroslav Tkach 6.17 6.50 fall
9   Ludovico Fossali 6.09 5.95
10   Guillaume Moro 6.36 6.12
11   Mickaël Mawem 6.28 6.79
12   Michael Finn-Henry 6.255 7.79
13   Gian Luca Zodda 6.06 7.88
14   Kostiantyn Pavlenko 6.02 8.28
15   Carlos Granja 6.03 8.73
16   Linus Bader 6.32 11.09

Women edit

24 women attended the event.[17]

Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław took the win after winning a tight race against the United States' Emma Hunt who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's Miho Nonaka placed third after beating Poland's Patrycja Chudziak in the small final.[15][16]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
    Aleksandra Mirosław 7.20 7.83 7.59 7.40 7.38
    Emma Hunt 7.52 7.61 7.62 7.77 7.53
    Miho Nonaka 8.58 8.50 8.20 8.36 8.95
4   Patrycja Chudziak 8.28 8.16 8.18 8.37 10.40
5   Anouck Jaubert 8.49 8.16 7.78
6   Natalia Kalucka 7.68 9.59 8.48
7   Alexandra Elmer 8.54 9.00 8.63
8   Capucine Viglione 7.94 7.87 10.58
9   Franziska Ritter 8.33 8.52
10   Callie Close 8.72 8.70
11   Tetiana Kolkotina 8.68 8.95
12   Brooke Raboutou 9.36 9.55
13   Akiyo Noguchi 9.12 10.20
14   Kyra Condie 8.43 10.82
15   Janja Garnbret 8.36 14.47
16   Laura Stöckler 8.77 14.94

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3) edit

Men edit

51 men attended the event.[18]

Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev in the final race. Leonardo's teammate, Kiromal Katibin placed third after beating Russia's Vladislav Deulin in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
    Veddriq Leonardo 5.52 5.50 5.42 5.35 5.32
    Dmitrii Timofeev 5.622 6.05 5.64 5.48 7.35
    Kiromal Katibin 5.48 5.35 5.31 6.07 5.30
4   Vladislav Deulin 5.756 5.67 5.62 5.51 5.38
5   Mehdi Alipour Shenazandifard 5.734 6.78 5.68
6   Aleksandr Shikov 5.67 6.07 5.72
7   Alfian Muhammad Fajri 5.724 5.60 6.13
8   Rishat Khaibullin 5.728 5.53 7.73
9   Aspar Jaelolo 5.726 5.72
10   Sergey Rukin 5.77 5.78
11   Marcin Dzieński 5.71 5.80
12   Reza Alipour Shenazandifard 5.54 5.81
13   John Brosler 5.757 6.11
14   Noah Bratschi 5.739 6.36
15   Lev Rudatskiy 5.625 7.91
16   Gian Luca Zodda 5.729 9.90

Women edit

40 women attended the event.[20]

Russia's Ekaterina Barashchuk took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder Iuliia Kaplina in the final race. Poland's Patrycja Chudziak took third place after beating Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
    Ekaterina Barashchuk 7.61 7.59 7.28 7.30 7.30
    Iuliia Kaplina 7.01 7.31 7.17 7.17 8.39
    Patrycja Chudziak 7.56 7.60 7.42 7.50 7.73
4   Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 7.34 7.33 7.02 fall 10.38
5   Emma Hunt 7.72 7.43 7.19
6   Natalia Kalucka 7.28 8.29 7.47
7   Anouck Jaubert 7.49 wildcard 7.52
8   Rajiah Sallsabillah 7.24 7.19 fall
9   Anna Brozek 7.84 7.61
10   Capucine Viglione 8.00 7.68
11   Giulia Randi 7.912 7.87
12   Manon Lebon 8.14 8.00
13   Janja Garnbret 7.916 8.01
14   Laura Stöckler 8.07 8.57
15   Elena Timofeeva 8.17 10.47
16   Nurul Iqamah 7.918 FS

References edit

  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  2. ^ "IFSC WORLD CUPS IN CHINA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  3. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP IN JAKARTA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  4. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup in Jakarta cancelled due to COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 11 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  5. ^ "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  6. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  7. ^ "2021 Salt Lake City info sheet".
  8. ^ "2021 Villars info sheet".
  9. ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), Kiromal Katibin DESTROYS the men's Speed world record!, retrieved 2021-05-29
  10. ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 - Men's and women's Speed finals, retrieved 2021-05-29
  11. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  12. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  13. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2021: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-07-04.
  14. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  15. ^ a b "Veddriq Leonardo sets new world record in Salt Lake City Speed World Cup". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  16. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Rnd 3): Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  17. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  18. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  19. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  20. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Speed_climbing_at_the_2021_IFSC_Climbing_World_Cup&oldid=1213711401"