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The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competitions and venues vary from year to year. The first World Cup was held in 1989, and included only lead climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998 and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of UIAA and called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they are held under the auspices of IFSC.[1]

Anna Stöhr at the Boulder Worldcup 2012

Contents

Scoring systemEdit

Individual disciplinesEdit

At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money. The top 30 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points.

Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Points 100 80 65 55 51 47 43 40 37 34 31 28 26 24 22
Ranking 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Points 20 18 16 14 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate.[2]

National team rankingEdit

At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.

Combined rankingEdit

Janja Garnbret's results in 2017
Discipline Overall
score
Overall
ranking
Lead 665 1
Bouldering 470 2
Speed 0 -
Combined 1135 1

For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event.[3] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.

From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.

Jakob Schubert's results in 2018
Discipline Selected
event
Rankings
General Relative
Lead Villars 1 1
Arco 1 1
Bouldering Meringen 4 3
Munich 3 2
Speed Wujiang 27 2
Xiamen 26 4
Product of relative rankings 48

Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score.[4] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called Relative rankings, as opposed to the Genereal rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.

In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results.[5] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.

Men's resultsEdit

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[6]

LeadEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1989   Simon Nadin   Didier Raboutou   Jerry Moffatt
1990   François Legrand   Jacky Godoffe   Jim Karn
1991   François Legrand   François Lombard   Yuji Hirayama
1992   François Legrand   Luca Zardini   Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1993   François Legrand   François Petit   Yuji Hirayama
1994   François Lombard   François Legrand   Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1995   François Petit   François Legrand   Arnaud Petit
1996   Arnaud Petit   François Petit   Cristian Brenna
1997   François Legrand   Arnaud Petit   François Petit
1998   Yuji Hirayama   Cristian Brenna   Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1999   François Petit   François Legrand   Andreas Bindhammer
2000   Yuji Hirayama   Alexandre Chabot   Cristian Brenna
2001   Alexandre Chabot   Gérome Pouvreau   Tomáš Mrázek
2002   Alexandre Chabot   Tomáš Mrázek   Gérome Pouvreau
2003   Alexandre Chabot   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   François Auclair
2004   Tomáš Mrázek   Alexandre Chabot   Flavio Crespi
2005   Flavio Crespi   Jorg Verhoeven   Cédric Lachat
2006   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   David Lama   Flavio Crespi
  Tomáš Mrázek
2007   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Tomáš Mrázek
2008   Jorg Verhoeven   Tomáš Mrázek   Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2009   Adam Ondra   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Sachi Amma
2010   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Jakob Schubert   Adam Ondra
2011   Jakob Schubert   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Sachi Amma
2012   Sachi Amma   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Jakob Schubert
2013   Sachi Amma   Jakob Schubert   Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2014   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl   Adam Ondra
2015   Adam Ondra   Gautier Supper   Jakob Schubert
2016   Domen Škofic   Jakob Schubert   Romain Desgranges
2017   Romain Desgranges   Stefano Ghisolfi   Keiichiro Korenaga
2018   Jakob Schubert   Stefano Ghisolfi   Romain Desgranges
  Domen Škofic

BoulderingEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1999   Christian Core   Serik Kazbekov   Jérôme Meyer
2000   Pedro Pons   Salavat Rakhmetov   Daniel Dulac
2001   Jérôme Meyer   Mauro Calibani   Daniel Andrada Jimenez
2002   Christian Core
  Jérôme Meyer
  Malcolm Smith
- -
2003   Jérôme Meyer   Salavat Rakhmetov   Daniel Dulac
2004   Daniel Dulac   Kilian Fischhuber   Jérôme Meyer
2005   Kilian Fischhuber   Jérôme Meyer   Daniel Dulac
2006   Jérôme Meyer   Kilian Fischhuber   Gérome Pouvreau
2007   Kilian Fischhuber   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Stephane Julien
2008   Kilian Fischhuber   David Lama   Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2009   Kilian Fischhuber   Rustam Gelmanov   Gabriele Moroni
2010   Adam Ondra   Kilian Fischhuber   Tsukuru Hori
2011   Kilian Fischhuber   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Guillaume Glairon Mondet
2012   Rustam Gelmanov   Kilian Fischhuber   Jakob Schubert
2013   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl
2014   Jan Hojer   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Guillaume Glairon Mondet
2015   Jongwon Chon   Jan Hojer   Adam Ondra
2016   Tomoa Narasaki   Kokoro Fujii   Alexey Rubtsov
2017   Jongwon Chon   Tomoa Narasaki   Alexey Rubtsov
2018   Jernej Kruder   Tomoa Narasaki   Rei Sugimoto
2019   Tomoa Narasaki   Adam Ondra   Yoshiyuki Ogata

SpeedEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3]   Andrey Vedenmeer   Vladimir Netsvetaev   Alexey Kozlov
1999   Tomasz Oleksy   Vladislav Baranov   Vladimir Zakharov
2000   Andrey Vedenmeer   Iakov Soubbotine   Vladimir Zakharov
2001   Maksym Styenkovyy   Alexander Chaoulsky   Alexander Peshekhonov
2002   Alexander Peshekhonov   Maksym Styenkovyy   Sergey Sinitsyn
2003   Tomasz Oleksy   Alexander Peshekhonov   Iakov Soubbotine
2004   Sergey Sinitsyn   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Alexander Peshekhonov
2005   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Sergey Sinitsyn   Tomasz Oleksy
2006   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Sergey Sinitsyn   Alexander Peshekhonov
2007   Sergey Sinitsyn   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Alexander Kosterin
2008   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Sergey Sinitsyn   Qixin Zhong
2009   Sergey Sinitsyn   Sergey Abdrakhmanov   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky
2010   Stanislav Kokorin   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Libor Hroza
2011   Łukasz Świrk   Sergey Sinitsyn   Sergey Abdrakhmanov
2012   Stanislav Kokorin   Danyil Boldyrev   Yaroslav Gontaryk
2013   Stanislav Kokorin   Libor Hroza   Qixin Zhong
2014   Danyil Boldyrev   Libor Hroza   Marcin Dzieński
2015   Qixin Zhong   Libor Hroza   Danyil Boldyrev
2016   Marcin Dzieński   Reza Alipour   Aleksander Shikov
2017   Vladislav Deulin   Reza Alipour   Ludovico Fossali
2018   Bassa Mawem   Danyil Boldyrev   Dmitry Timofeev

CombinedEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3][7]   Yevgen Kryvosheytsev   Tomasz Oleksy -
1999   François Petit   Daniel Andrada Jimenez   Tomasz Oleksy
2000   Alexandre Chabot   Salavat Rakhmetov   Serik Kazbekov
2001   Alexandre Chabot   Serik Kazbekov   Kilian Fischhuber
2002   Maksym Styenkovyy   Serik Kazbekov   Kilian Fischhuber
2003   Tomasz Oleksy   Evgeny Ovchinnikov   Serik Kazbekov
  Cédric Lachat
2004   Kilian Fischhuber   Flavio Crespi   Gérome Pouvreau
2005   Tomasz Oleksy   Kilian Fischhuber   Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2006   Tomáš Mrázek   David Lama   Kilian Fischhuber
2007   Jorg Verhoeven   Tomáš Mrázek   Kilian Fischhuber
2008   David Lama   Jorg Verhoeven   Tomáš Mrázek
2009   Adam Ondra   Sachi Amma   Klemen Becan
2010   Adam Ondra   Jakob Schubert   Sachi Amma
2011   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl   Klemen Becan
2012   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl   Sachi Amma
2013   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl   Sachi Amma
2014   Sean McColl   Adam Ondra   Domen Skofic
2015   Adam Ondra   Sean McColl   Domen Skofic
2016   Sean McColl   Jakob Schubert   Kokoro Fujii
2017   Tomoa Narasaki   Jongwon Chon   Kokoro Fujii
2018   Jakob Schubert   Tomoa Narasaki   Kokoro Fujii

Women's resultsEdit

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[6]

LeadEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1989   Nanette Raybaud   Luisa Iovane   Robyn Erbesfield
1990   Isabelle Patissier
  Lynn Hill
-   Nanette Raybaud
1991   Isabelle Patissier   Susi Good   Robyn Erbesfield
1992   Robyn Erbesfield   Isabelle Patissier   Lynn Hill
1993   Robyn Erbesfield   Susi Good   Elena Ovtchinnikova
1994   Robyn Erbesfield   Isabelle Patissier   Natalie Richer
1995   Robyn Erbesfield   Laurence Guyon   Liv Sansoz
1996   Liv Sansoz   Laurence Guyon   Stéphanie Bodet
1997   Muriel Sarkany   Liv Sansoz   Stéphanie Bodet
1998   Liv Sansoz   Muriel Sarkany   Stéphanie Bodet
1999   Muriel Sarkany   Liv Sansoz   Martina Cufar
2000   Liv Sansoz   Muriel Sarkany   Stéphanie Bodet
2001   Muriel Sarkany   Martina Cufar   Sandrine Levet
2002   Muriel Sarkany   Sandrine Levet   Martina Cufar
2003   Muriel Sarkany   Sandrine Levet   Angela Eiter
2004   Angela Eiter   Muriel Sarkany   Alexandra Eyer
  Natalija Gros
2005   Angela Eiter   Maja Vidmar   Caroline Ciavaldini
2006   Angela Eiter   Sandrine Levet   Caroline Ciavaldini
2007   Maja Vidmar   Angela Eiter   Muriel Sarkany
2008   Johanna Ernst   Maja Vidmar   Mina Markovic
2009   Johanna Ernst   Jain Kim   Maja Vidmar
2010   Jain Kim   Mina Markovic   Angela Eiter
2011   Mina Markovic   Jain Kim   Maja Vidmar
2012   Mina Markovic   Jain Kim   Johanna Ernst
2013   Jain Kim   Mina Markovic   Momoka Oda
2014   Jain Kim   Mina Markovic   Magdalena Röck
2015   Mina Markovic   Jain Kim   Jessica Pilz
2016   Janja Garnbret   Anak Verhoeven   Jain Kim
2017   Janja Garnbret   Jain Kim   Anak Verhoeven
2018   Janja Garnbret   Jessica Pilz   Jain Kim

BoulderingEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1999   Stéphanie Bodet   Elena Choumilova   Sandrine Levet
2000   Sandrine Levet   Elena Choumilova   Delphine Martin
2001   Sandrine Levet   Myriam Motteau   Corinne Theroux
2002   Myriam Motteau
  Nataliya Perlova
  Lisa Rands
- -
2003   Sandrine Levet   Olga Bibik   Nataliya Perlova
2004   Sandrine Levet   Olga Bibik   Yulia Abramchuk
2005   Sandrine Levet   Olga Bibik   Yulia Abramchuk
2006   Olga Bibik   Juliette Danion   Anna Stöhr
2007   Juliette Danion   Olga Shalagina   Natalija Gros
2008   Anna Stöhr   Akiyo Noguchi   Yulia Abramchuk
2009   Akiyo Noguchi   Anna Stöhr   Natalija Gros
2010   Akiyo Noguchi   Anna Stöhr   Chloé Graftiaux
2011   Anna Stöhr   Akiyo Noguchi   Alex Puccio
2012   Anna Stöhr   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey
2013   Anna Stöhr   Akiyo Noguchi   Alex Puccio
2014   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey   Anna Stöhr
2015   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey   Miho Nonaka
2016   Shauna Coxsey   Miho Nonaka   Melissa Le Neve
2017   Shauna Coxsey   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi
2018   Miho Nonaka   Akiyo Noguchi   Fanny Gibert
2019   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Fanny Gibert

SpeedEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3]   Olga Zakharova   Alena Ostapenko   Nataliya Perlova
1999   Olga Zakharova   Alena Ostapenko   Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2000   Olena Ryepko   Olga Zakharova   Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2001   Olga Zakharova   Agung Ethi Hendrawati   Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2002   Olena Ryepko   Maya Piratinskaya   Valentina Yurina
2003   Valentina Yurina   Anna Stenkovaya   Olena Ryepko
2004   Tatiana Ruyga   Anna Stenkovaya   Agung Ethi Hendrawati
2005   Anna Stenkovaya   Valentina Yurina   Olga Evstigneeva
2006   Tatiana Ruyga   Valentina Yurina   Anna Stenkovaya
2007   Tatiana Ruyga   Svitlana Tuzhylina   Anna Stenkovaya
2008   Edyta Ropek   Olena Ryepko   Svitlana Tuzhylina
2009   Edyta Ropek   Anna Stenkovaya   Valentina Yurina
2010   Yulia Levochkina   Ksenia Alekseeva   Edyta Ropek
2011   Edyta Ropek   Maria Krasavina   Alina Gaydamakina
2012   Alina Gaydamakina   Yulia Levochkina   Maria Krasavina
2013   Alina Gaydamakina   Yulia Kaplina   Aleksandra Rudzinska
2014   Maria Krasavina   Yulia Kaplina   Anouck Jaubert
2015   Maria Krasavina   Anouck Jaubert   Yulia Kaplina
2016   Yulia Kaplina   Anouck Jaubert   Klaudia Buczek
2017   Anouck Jaubert   Yulia Kaplina   Maria Krasavina
2018   Anouck Jaubert   Aries Susanti Rahayu   Yulia Kaplina

CombinedEdit

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3][8]   Nataliya Perlova   Renata Piszczek   Olena Ostapenko
1999   Elena Choumilova   Stéphanie Bodet   Isabelle Bihr
2000   Liv Sansoz   Sandrine Levet   Elena Choumilova
2001   Sandrine Levet   Martina Cufar   Elena Choumilova
  Annatina Schultz
2002   Sandrine Levet   Olga Zakharova   Jenny Lavarda
2003   Sandrine Levet   Olga Bibik   Barbara Bacher
2004   Sandrine Levet   Jenny Lavarda   Alexandra Eyer
2005   Sandrine Levet   Anna Stenkovaya   Jenny Lavarda
2006   Angela Eiter   Natalija Gros   Maja Vidmar
2007   Natalija Gros   Angela Eiter   Svitlana Tuzhylina
2008   Akiyo Noguchi   Johanna Ernst   Natalija Gros
2009   Akiyo Noguchi   Jain Kim   Johanna Ernst
2010   Jain Kim   Akiyo Noguchi   Natalija Gros
2011   Mina Markovic   Jain Kim   Akiyo Noguchi
2012   Mina Markovic   Jain Kim   Akiyo Noguchi
2013   Mina Markovic   Akiyo Noguchi   Momoka Oda
2014   Akiyo Noguchi   Mina Markovic   Momoka Oda
2015   Jain Kim   Akiyo Noguchi   Yuka Kobayashi
2016   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Jessica Pilz
2017   Janja Garnbret   Jain Kim   Shauna Coxsey
2018   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Miho Nonaka

Season win countEdit

Season Wins (1989–8 June 2019)
RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  France (FRA)442937110
2  Russia (RUS)26413299
3  Austria (AUT)24201761
4  Slovenia (SLO)17111644
5  Japan (JPN)15172254
6  Ukraine (UKR)13131440
7  Poland (POL)92617
8  Czech Republic (CZE)88824
9  South Korea (KOR)710219
10  United States (USA)60713
11  Belgium (BEL)53311
12  Spain (ESP)46313
13  Great Britain (GBR)4239
14  Italy (ITA)38819
15  Canada (CAN)2518
16  Netherlands (NED)2204
17  Germany (GER)1113
18  China (CHN)1023
19   Switzerland (SUI)0257
20  Indonesia (INA)0213
21  Iran (IRN)0101
Totals (21 nations)191183188562

Medal countEdit

Medals (1989 – 8 June 2019)
RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  France (FRA)173155173501
2  Russia (RUS)154168161483
3  Austria (AUT)1117971261
4  Slovenia (SLO)746455193
5  Japan (JPN)538074207
6  Spain (ESP)36332089
7  Ukraine (UKR)363247115
8  South Korea (KOR)35182376
9  Czech Republic (CZE)31362592
10  United States (USA)28372590
11  Belgium (BEL)25291771
12  Poland (POL)25222168
13  Italy (ITA)23363392
14  Great Britain (GBR)19191452
15  China (CHN)1891845
16  Germany (GER)17192359
17   Switzerland (SUI)10142549
18  Indonesia (INA)6171134
19  Iran (IRN)62614
20  Canada (CAN)5151535
21  Venezuela (VEN)52310
22  Netherlands (NED)491629
23  Soviet Union (URS)1113
24  Hong Kong (HKG)1001
  Israel (ISR)1001
26  Hungary (HUN)0314
27  Norway (NOR)0022
  Sweden (SWE)0022
29  Unknown nation0011
  Finland (FIN)0011
  Serbia (SRB)0011
  Singapore (SIN)0011
Totals (32 nations)8978998862682

See alsoEdit

ReferencesEdit

  1. ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 19 May 2013.
  2. ^ "Event Regulations".
  3. ^ a b c d e Before 1998, the World Cup consisted only of lead climbing competitions. In 1998, for the first time a speed event was introduced, which was held in Beauregard (Italy). A combined title was also awarded. However, only 3 women and 2 men competed in both disciplines and hence met the requirements to be ranked for the combined title.
  4. ^ "IFSC Rules modifications 2018" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 May 2019.
  5. ^ "IFSC Rules modifications 2019" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 May 2019.
  6. ^ a b "World Cup rankings and World rankings". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  7. ^ "UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: MEN COMBINED".
  8. ^ "UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: WOMEN COMBINED".

External linksEdit