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Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999 in Šmartno pri Slovenj Gradcu) is a Slovenian rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events.

Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret SLO 2017-08-19 2267 (cropped).jpg
Garnbret at the 2017 Boulder Worldcup in Munich
Personal information
NationalitySlovenian
Born (1999-03-12) March 12, 1999 (age 20)
Šmartno pri Slovenj Gradcu, Slovenia
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height164 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight47 kg (104 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning three World Cups (2016, 2017, 2018). Winning World Cup (Lead and Combined), World Championships (Lead) and World Youth Championships (Lead and Bouldering) in 2016.
Updated on May 6, 2019.

In July 2015, just after turning 16, she started competing in the senior category of the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since then, she participated in 25 Lead Climbing World Cup events, missing the podium in only one of them (Imst, 2016), where she ranked fifth.[1][2][3][4] In 2016 she won five different international competitions organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing:

  • World Cup in both Lead climbing and Combined disciplines
  • World Championships in Lead climbing
  • World Youth Championships in both Lead climbing and Bouldering.

For three consecutive years, from 2016 to 2018, she was awarded the World Cup both in Lead climbing and Combined disciplines. In 2018, she was World Champion in both Bouldering and Combined disciplines, and runner up in the Lead Climbing World Championships.

Contents

CompetitionsEdit

In 2015, her first year of eligibility for the IFSC Climbing World Cup, she placed seventh in the overall lead climbing standings.[5][6] In the same year, she also placed first in a notable Swedish bouldering event, the "La Sportiva Legends Only", ahead of Shauna Coxsey, Mélissa Le Nevé, Juliane Wurm, and Anna Stöhr.[7]

In 2016, she won most of the IFSC competitions in which she participated. She won the World Cup in Lead and Combined disciplines, the World Championships in Lead, and the World Youth Championships in Lead and Bouldering.[8] Garnbret also won the Adidas Rockstars 2016 contest (an invitational contest for the world's best bouldering athletes), defeating Jessica Pilz in the superfinal.[9]

In 2017, she won the World Cup in Lead and Combined disciplines, the Combined title in the European Championships, and she ranked second in Bouldering both at the World Cup and European Championships.

In 2018, she was World Champion in both Bouldering and Combined. In this instance, she was extremely close to also winning the Lead Climbing World Championships. Here, however, she earned the silver medal by powerfully topping the final route in 4 minutes and 38 seconds, just 11 seconds slower than Jessica Pilz, who won first place.

 
Garnbret as European Champion 2017 in Combined disciplines - with Stasa Gejo SER second and Petra Klingler SUI third place
 
Janja Garnbret climbing at the Boulder Worldcup 2017 in Munich, Germany

Rock climbingEdit

In addition to her competition climbing career, Janja Garnbret is also an accomplished outdoor climber, completing the ascents of various extremely difficult routes. She also participated and won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2015.[10]

In 2015 she on-sighted the route Avatar, an 8b (5.13d) route in Pandora, Croatia.[11] The same year she successfully climbed her first 8c+ (5.14c), Miza za šest at Kotecnik in her home country of Slovenia.[12] The next year she flashed La Fabelita at Santa Linya in Spain, an 8c (5.14b) sports climbing route. She was given advice by her countrywoman Mina Markovič and climbed the route without apparent struggle in less than 15 minutes.[13] In 2017 she went one step further and clipped the anchor of her first 9a (5.14d), Seleccio Natural, again at Santa Linya.[14] Just few days later she climbed her second 9a route, La Fabela pa la Enmienda, also at Santa Linya.[15]

RankingsEdit

Climbing World Cup[16]Edit

Discipline 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 7 1 1 1
Bouldering - 17 2 4
Speed - - - 57
Combined - 1 1 1

Climbing World ChampionshipsEdit

Youth[17]

Discipline 2013
Youth B
2014
Youth B
2015
Youth A
2016
Youth A
Lead 4 1 1 1
Bouldering - - 1 1
Speed - - 23 28
Combined - - 2[18] 2[19]

Adult[17]

Discipline 2016 2018
Lead 1 2
Bouldering - 1
Speed - 49
Combined - 1

Climbing European Championships[17]Edit

Youth[17]

Discipline 2013
Youth B
2014
Youth B
2015
Youth A
Lead 1 1 1
Bouldering 1 1 1

Adult[17]

Discipline 2015 2017
Lead 2 4
Bouldering - 2
Speed - 32
Combined - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth CupEdit

Lead[17]Edit

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2014 Youth B 3 3
2015 Youth A 3 3
2016 Youth A 1 1
Total 7 0 0 7

Number of medals in the Climbing World CupEdit

Lead[17]Edit

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2015 2 1 3
2016 4 2 6
2017 6 2 8
2018 4 3 7
Total 14 5 5 24

Bouldering[17]Edit

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2016 1 1
2017 3 1 4
2018 2 1 3
2019 5 5
Total 10 3 0 13

See alsoEdit

ReferencesEdit

  1. ^ IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2015 Lead Climbing World Cup - Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  2. ^ IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2016 Lead Climbing World Cup - Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  3. ^ IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2017 Lead Climbing World Cup - Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  4. ^ IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2018 Lead Climbing World Cup - Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  5. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N lead".
  6. ^ Murray, Emma (July 25, 2016), "Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again", Rock & Ice.
  7. ^ Ketchum, Chris (November 30, 2015), "Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only", Rock & Ice.
  8. ^ Athlete profile, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved 2016-08-01.
  9. ^ Adidas ROCKSTARS 2016, retrieved 2017-10-19.
  10. ^ "MELLOBLOCCO 2015 – The year of the women".
  11. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs 8b onsight in Croatia". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-09.
  12. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/janja-garnbret-climbs-8c-at-kotecnik-in-slovenia.html>
  13. ^ "Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-09.
  14. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-08.
  15. ^ "Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-16.
  16. ^ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  17. ^ a b c d e f g h IFSC, ed. (April 26, 2018). "Garnbret's profile and rankings". Retrieved April 26, 2018.
  18. ^ Combined results WYCH 2015
  19. ^ Combined results WYCH 2016

External linksEdit