Jacqueline Brandford Ayer (May 2, 1930[1] – May 20, 2012) was an American author, illustrator, fashion and textile designer, and recipient of a Gold Medal from the Society of Illustrators.[1] She founded the fashion brand Design-Thai, worked in India producing textiles and wrote and illustrated children's books including Nu Dang and His Kite, A Wish for Little Sister and A Paper Flower Tree.
Jacqueline Ayer | |
|---|---|
| Born | May 2, 1930 New York City, U.S. |
| Died | May 20, 2012 (aged 82) London, UK |
| Education | |
| Known for | Author, illustrator, fashion designer |
| Spouse | Frederic Lyman Ayer |
Career edit
Jacqueline Ayer was born in New York City to Jamaican parents.[2] Her father Edward Brandford was a graphic artist[2] who founded The Brandford Modeling Agency, the first licensed African-American agency in the United States.[3][4] Her mother, Thelma Brandford,[2] was a sample cutter and shop steward for the ILGWU (International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union).[citation needed] Ayer grew up in the "Coops",[2] an East Bronx cooperative built for garment workers.[5] She went to the High School of Music & Art in New York[2] and then Syracuse University,[1] followed by the Académie de la Grande Chaumière (drawing),[citation needed] the École Paul Colin (graphics)[citation needed] and the École des Beaux-Arts[1] (painting[citation needed]) in Paris.
While she was in France in the early 1950s, Ayer worked as a fashion illustrator, sketching the models as they walked down the runway at the Paris collections.[citation needed] From there she was introduced to Christian Dior and Michel de Brunhoff, the editor of Vogue Paris, who helped to support her and develop her work.[6] In 1950, she was featured alongside Man Ray in the "Fantsastische Gebete" segment of the film Dadascope (released 1961) by Hans Richter. She played the black chess queen; Man Ray's muse (later wife) Juliet Browner played the white queen.[6]
She moved back to New York in 1953 and began working for the department store Bonwit Teller as a fashion illustrator; among her colleagues there was the young Andy Warhol.[6] She returned to Paris on holiday in 1956, where she met fellow American Frederic Ayer.[2] They got married and traveled by boat and train across Asia, before renting a house in Bangkok, where their first daughter Margot was born. Their second daughter Elizabeth was born two-and-a-half years later.[2]
Inspired by her surroundings in Thailand, Ayer began to work on a series of children's books based on her illustrations of day-to-day life in Bangkok.[2] She was offered a publishing deal by Harcourt Brace in New York, and went on to publish eight children's books (four as author and illustrator, four as illustrator),[6] including Nu Dang and His Kite,[2][7][8] A Wish for Little Sister[9] and A Paper Flower Tree[7]
In Bangkok Ayer met Jim Thompson, the founder of The Thai Silk Company, who had been approached by an executive working for Nelson Rockefeller's International Basic Economy Corporation about developing a business based on traditional Thai crafts. Jim Thompson suggested modernising traditional Thai patterns and printing them on his silks. On Thompson's recommendation, Ayer was hired as the designer for the new company, which she decided to name Design-Thai. The printed textiles, which included silks and cottons, were popular with both Europeans and Americans. Ayer designed both fabrics and clothing patterns. Design-Thai was able to expand, opening a large shop in Bangkok branching into ready-to-wear clothing.[6][10][7][11][12][13][14] In 1966–67, Design-Thai had over 400 employees[13][15] and, during Ayer's tenure, its wares were sold by shops including Harrod's.[14]
In the 1970s Ayer worked for the Indian government, helping to develop traditional crafts and cottage industries across the country. She also had a stint in New York designing bed linen, which was sold in top department stores including Bloomingdale's and Neiman Marcus.[citation needed] But she was mainly based in London,[2] where she designed soft furnishings for brands including The Conran Shop and Ralph Lauren, as well as publishing a book on the history of Oriental costumes. In later life, Ayer continued to draw and paint, and many of her final works were large-scale watercolours featuring flowers and her personal belongings.[citation needed]
The Paper-Flower Tree and Nu Dang and His Kite were republished in June and July respectively in 2017 by New York-based publishers Enchanted Lion Books, in conjunction with an exhibition on Jacqueline Ayer's illustration and fashion design at The House of Illustration in London, June 17 to October 22, 2017.[7]
Publications edit
Children's books edit
- Author and illustrator
- Nu Dang and His Kite, Harcourt, Brace and Company 1959,[8][6] Collins, St. James's Place, London 1963
- A Wish for Little Sister, Harcourt, Brace and Company 1960,[9][6] Collins, St. James's Place, London, 1963
- The Paper Flower Tree, Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc., 1962,[16][6] Collins, St. James's Place, London, 1963
- Little Silk, Harcourt, Brace Jovanovich, Inc., 1970[6]
- Illustrator
- Humpy, by P. Yershov, Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc., 1966[6]
- Rumpelstiltskin, by the Brothers Grimm and Jacqueline Ayer, Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc.,1967,[17][6] Collins, St. James's Place, London 1968
- Princess September, by W. Somerset Maugham, Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc., 1969[6]
- The Lost Umbrella of Kim Chu, by Eleanor Estes, Atheneum, New York, 1978[18][6]
Adults' books edit
- Author and illustrator
- Oriental Costumes, Atheneum, Macmillan Publishers Ltd, London 1974
References edit
- ^ a b c d "Jacqueline Ayer Collection (finding aid)". University of Minnesota Archives and Special Collections. Retrieved 29 June 2017.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Hannah Booth (18 June 2017). "The groundbreaking children's books that drew on life in Thailand". The Guardian. Retrieved 27 June 2017.
- ^ "Black History Daily: Who had the First Licensed Black Modeling Agency?". HBCUConnect. 26 August 2011. Retrieved 29 June 2017.
- ^ Jessie Carney Smith, ed. (2006). "Barbara May Watson". Encyclopedia of African American Business, Volume 1. Greenwood Publishing Group. p. 823. ISBN 0313331103.
- ^ "United Workers' Cooperative Colony (designation report)" (PDF). New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. Archived from the original (PDF) on 3 March 2016. Retrieved 29 June 2017.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m Jacueline Ayer: Drawing on Thailand. London: House of Illustration. 2017. Catalog published to accompany Jacqueline Ayer: Drawing on Thailand, on show at House of Illustration from June 16 to October 22, 2017.
- ^ a b c d "Jacqueline Ayer: Drawing on Thailand". London: House of Illustration. 2017. Retrieved 27 June 2017. This specifically mentions her as founder of Design-Thai.
- ^ a b (2015). Literature for Children (1959). World Book Year Books. World Book Publishing. Retrieved from http://elibrary.bigchalk.com.ezproxy.spl.org
- ^ a b (2015). Literature for Children (1960). World Book Year Books. World Book Publishing. Retrieved June 29, 2017, from http://elibrary.bigchalk.com.ezproxy.spl.org
- ^ "Thailand: Millions from the Mulberry Bush". Time Magazine. 16 July 1965. Paywalled. Also reprinted at "A New Start". xinkaishi.typepad.com. 5 August 2007. (Citation for her role in Design-Thai and for the Rockefeller involvement.)
- ^
Joan Rattner (a.k.a. Joan Rattner Heilman) (30 August 1964). "Thailand Adventure". This Week. pp. 6–7.
So, in 1961, when the International Basic Economy Corporation, a Rockefeller-financed self-help project, bought a textile printing plant [in Thailand], it turned to the handiest local talent, Mrs. Ayer, to design fabrics to be produced in the factory. This was part of IBEC's activities aimed at helping the Thais to develop their native industries, and get them going full steam. Of course, fabrics and clothing have been exported from Hong Kong ever since the war, but this was a new idea in Bangkok except for American Jim Thompson's already-famous Thai silks.¶ Mrs. Ayer toured the museums and the countryside, examined patterns, symbols and colors used in Asian fabrics which were usually hand loomed and hand printed. Then she simplified them, enlarged them, made the more contemporary, easier to print, simpler to produce. Colors had to change too as the old-time Thai vegetable dye colors often seemd dim and faded for Western Tastes.¶ Designing fabrics soon led to designing dresses and a firm named Design Thai...
- ^ "Inspiration from the Orient". London Illustrated Weekly. 3 February 1968. p. 34.
- ^ a b Alison Adburgham (25 August 1967). "East Comes West". The Guardian. p. 6.
- ^ a b Anne Price (18 November 1965). "Legacy of Beauty". Country Life. p. 1366.
- ^ "Clothes in Oriental Mood". The Times. 1 March 1966. p. 11.
- ^ (2015). Literature for Children (1962). World Book Year Books. World Book Publishing. Retrieved from http://elibrary.bigchalk.com.ezproxy.spl.org
- ^ (2015). Literature for Children (1967). World Book Year Books. World Book Publishing. Retrieved from http://elibrary.bigchalk.com.ezproxy.spl.org
- ^ (2015). Literature for Children (1978). World Book Year Books. World Book Publishing. Retrieved from http://elibrary.bigchalk.com.ezproxy.spl.org
External links edit
- "Jacqueline Ayer: Drawing on Thailand". BBC. 26 May 2017. Retrieved 27 June 2017.[permanent dead link]
- Anna Betts (2 March 2012) [1959]. "Jacqueline Ayer". colourandsound.blogspot.co.uk. Retrieved 27 June 2017. Reproduces several pages of Nu Dang and His Kite. Comments from Ayer's daughter Bet Ayer at bottom, dated May 25, 2012
- "Jacqueline Ayer". Fiction DB. Retrieved 27 June 2017.
- Photo of Ayer; still from Dadascope
- Maria Popova, "The Paper-Flower Tree: An Illustrated Ode to the Courage of Withstanding Cynicism and the Generative Power of the Affectionate Imagination", Brain Pickings, August 30, 2017.