The 2017 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 19th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were being held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 7 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 19 August at the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Shauna Coxsey won the women's World Cup and Jongwon Chon won the men's World Cup.
| Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
|---|---|
 Jongwon Chon KOR, winner of the World Cup 2017 | |
| Location |  Meiringen, Switzerland
 Munich, Germany |
| Dates | 7 April – 19 August 2017 |
| Champions | |
| Men |  Jongwon Chon |
| Women |  Shauna Coxsey |
Changes from the previous season edit
For the 2017 season the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. Beginning in 2017 any attempt would only be considered successful if the athlete had reached the top and demonstrated control over it within the four minute time limit. (four minutes dead rule) Previously boulderers had four minutes per boulder, but a boulderer was allowed to finish their attempt if they had successfully started the boulder within the four minute limit. (four minutes plus rule) [1]
Streaming controversy edit
Before the start of the 2017 season the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[2] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[3] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[3] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[4]
Overall ranking edit
Men edit
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jongwon Chon
|
453 |
| 2 |  Tomoa Narasaki
|
404 |
| 3 |  Alexey Rubtsov
|
399 |
| 4 | Keita Watabe
|
372 |
| 5 | Kokoro Fujii
|
327 |
| 6 | Rei Sugimoto
|
278 |
| 7 | Jan Hojer
|
235 |
| 8 | Yoshiyuki Ogata
|
232 |
| 9 |  Jernej Kruder
|
201 |
| 10 |  Jakob Schubert
|
186 |
Women edit
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shauna Coxsey
|
560 |
| 2 | Janja Garnbret
|
470 |
| 3 | Akiyo Noguchi
|
381 |
| 4 | Miho Nonaka
|
377 |
| 5 | Petra Klingler
|
290 |
| 6 |  Staša Gejo
|
234 |
| 7 | Katja Kadic
|
227 |
| 8 | Michaela Tracy
|
190 |
| 9 |  Fanny Gibert
|
187 |
| 10 | Aya Onoe
|
165 |
National teams edit
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Japan
|
2118 |
| 2 | Great Britain
|
929 |
| 3 | Slovenia
|
927 |
| 4 | Germany
|
736 |
| 5 | France
|
715 |
| 6 | Republic of Korea
|
694 |
| 7 | Russian Federation
|
608 |
| 8 | Austria
|
548 |
| 8 | Suisse
|
368 |
| 10 |  United States of America
|
340 |
Meiringen, Switzerland (7–8 April) edit
Women edit
78 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Shauna Coxsey (4t10 4b8) won the competition in front of Katharina Saurwein (2t6 3b13).[5]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shauna Coxsey
|
4t10 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Katharina Saurwein
|
2t6 3b13 | 80 |
| 3 | Miho Nonaka
|
1t2 3b6 | 65 |
| 4 | Stasa Gejo
|
1t3 3b3 | 55 |
| 5 | Petra Klingler
|
1t3 2b3 | 51 |
| 6 | Janja Garnbret
|
0t 2b4 | 47 |
Men edit
115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Kokoro Fujii (1t1 3b6) won the competition in front of Alexey Rubtsov (1t2 2b8).[5]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kokoro Fujii
|
1t1 3b6 | 100 |
| 2 | Alexey Rubtsov
|
1t2 2b8 | 80 |
| 3 | Keita Watabe
|
1t3 2b12 | 65 |
| 4 | Rei Sugimoto
|
1t5 3b7 | 55 |
| 5 | Jernej Kruder
|
0t 2b3 | 51 |
| 6 | David Firnenburg
|
0t 1b4 | 47 |
Chongqing, China (22–23 April) edit
Women edit
42 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Janja Garnbret (4t11 4b7) won the competition in front of Shauna Coxsey (3t4 4b5).[6]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Janja Garnbret
|
4t11 4b7 | 100 |
| 2 | Shauna Coxsey
|
3t4 4b5 | 80 |
| 3 | Akiyo Noguchi
|
3t13 4b13 | 65 |
| 4 | Anna Stöhr
|
1t3 3b6 | 55 |
| 5 |  Alannah Yip
|
1t3 3b8 | 51 |
| 6 | Stasa Gejo
|
1t4 3b7 | 47 |
Men edit
77 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Jongwon Chon (4t6 4b5) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2t2 3b3), who claimed the second place over Alexey Rubtsov by virtue of his better semi-final score.[6]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jongwon Chon
|
4t6 4b5 | 100 |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki
|
2t2 3b3 | 80 |
| 3 | Alexey Rubtsov
|
2t2 3b3 | 65 |
| 4 | Keita Watabe
|
2t3 3b3 | 55 |
| 5 | Kai Harada
|
1t1 3b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Manuel Cornu
|
1t4 3b8 | 47 |
Nanjing, China (29–30 April) edit
Women edit
50 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Shauna Coxsey (4t12 4b12) won her second World Cup competition of the season. At this point Coxsey and Nanjing runner-up Janja Garnbret (3t7 3b7) were the only two athletes to have made the final of all World Cups of the season.[7]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shauna Coxsey
|
4t12 4b12 | 100 |
| 2 | Janja Garnbret
|
3t7 3b7 | 80 |
| 3 | Miho Nonaka
|
2t6 4b15 | 65 |
| 4 | Jain Kim
|
1t5 2b11 | 55 |
| 5 | Aya Onoe
|
0t 3b8 | 51 |
| 6 | Mei Kotake
|
0t 1b3 | 47 |
Men edit
83 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Keita Watabe (4t9 4b8), the only athlete in all World Cup finals of the season at this point, won his first World Cup competition. Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 4b7) came in second.[7]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Keita Watabe
|
4t9 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki
|
3t6 4b7 | 80 |
| 3 | Jernej Kruder
|
2t5 3b5 | 65 |
| 4 | Jongwon Chon
|
1t1 3b8 | 55 |
| 5 | Manuel Cornu
|
0t 3b3 | 51 |
| 6 | Rei Sugimoto
|
0t 3b4 | 47 |
Hachioji, Japan (6–7 May) edit
Women edit
54 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji, Tokyo. Janja Garnbret (4t5 4b4) won her second World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won the silver medal.[8]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Janja Garnbret
|
4t5 4b4 | 100 |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi
|
4t9 4b9 | 80 |
| 3 | Miho Nonaka
|
3t4 4b5 | 65 |
| 4 | Shauna Coxsey
|
2t2 3b3 | 55 |
| 5 | Fanny Gibert
|
2t6 4b12 | 51 |
| 6 | Petra Klingler
|
1t1 3b5 | 47 |
Men edit
84 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji. Alexey Rubtsov (3t8 4b13) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t9 4b19), who had his third consecutive silver medal finish.[8]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alexey Rubtsov
|
3t8 4b13 | 100 |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki
|
3t9 4b19 | 80 |
| 3 | Keita Watabe
|
2t5 3b6 | 65 |
| 4 | Mickael Mawem
|
1t1 4b8 | 55 |
| 5 | Jakob Schubert
|
1t2 3b5 | 51 |
| 6 | Taisei Ishimatsu
|
1t3 4b9 | 47 |
Vail, United States (9–10 June) edit
Women edit
55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Shauna Coxsey (4t5 4b4) won her third World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won silver again. For the first time this season Janja Garnbret did not reach the final.[9]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shauna Coxsey
|
3t4 4b5 | 100 |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi
|
3t6 4b6 | 80 |
| 3 | Miho Nonaka
|
3t7 4b7 | 65 |
| 4 | Alex Puccio
|
3t10 4b10 | 55 |
| 5 | Katja Kadic
|
1t3 2b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Petra Klingler
|
0t 1b2 | 47 |
Men edit
59 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Jongwon Chon (4t9 4b8) won the World Cup in front of Meichi Narasaki (3t6 3b5).[9]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jongwon Chon
|
4t9 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Meichi Narasaki
|
3t6 3b5 | 80 |
| 3 | Yoshiyuki Ogata
|
3t11 4b7 | 65 |
| 4 | Alexey Rubtsov
|
2t5 3b8 | 55 |
| 5 | Kokoro Fujii
|
2t6 4b10 | 51 |
| 6 | Keita Watabe
|
1t3 1b3 | 47 |
edit
Women edit
41 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Shauna Coxsey (4t11 4b8) won her fourth World Cup of the season, thereby securing the overall seasonal title. Miho Nonaka (3t7 4b11) came in second.[10]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shauna Coxsey
|
4t11 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Miho Nonaka
|
3t7 4b11 | 80 |
| 3 | Akiyo Noguchi
|
2t3 3b7 | 65 |
| 4 | Petra Klingler
|
1t3 3b4 | 55 |
| 5 | Katja Kadic
|
0t 3b6 | 51 |
| 6 | Aya Onoe
|
0t 1b5 | 47 |
Men edit
58 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Jongwon Chon (4t10 4b10) won the World Cup in front of Rei Sugimoto (3t6 3b4). This left Chon, Rubtsov, and Watabe with a chance to claim the overall title at the final World Cup of the season in Munich.[10]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jongwon Chon
|
4t10 4b10 | 100 |
| 2 | Rei Sugimoto
|
3t6 3b4 | 80 |
| 3 | Alexey Rubtsov
|
3t9 3b8 | 65 |
| 4 | Kokoro Fujii
|
1t1 3b9 | 55 |
| 5 | Jakob Schubert
|
1t1 3b11 | 51 |
| 6 | Tomoa Narasaki
|
1t1 2b2 | 47 |
Munich, Germany (18–19 August) edit
Women edit
114 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (3t10 3b6) won her second World Cup of the season, thereby securing the second place overall. Shauna Coxsey (2t2 2b2) won the Silver medal. She had locked up the overall title before the Munich competition already.[11]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Janja Garnbret
|
3t10 3b6 | 100 |
| 2 | Shauna Coxsey
|
2t2 2b2 | 80 |
| 3 | Akiyo Noguchi
|
1t1 2b4 | 65 |
| 4 | Stasa Gejo
|
1t3 3b9 | 55 |
| 5 | Alex Puccio
|
1t3 2b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Petra Klingler
|
0t 1b4 | 47 |
Men edit
166 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Germany's Jan Hojer (4t10 4b6) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 3b3). However, Narasaki's four second places over the course of the season were not enough to defend his overall title. The overall title went to Jongwon Chon, who had come in fourth in Munich.[11]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Jan Hojer
|
4t10 4b6 | 100 |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki
|
3t6 3b3 | 80 |
| 3 | Taisei Ishimatsu
|
3t7 3b4 | 65 |
| 4 | Jongwon Chon
|
2t3 3b4 | 55 |
| 5 | Yoshiyuki Ogata
|
2t4 3b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Kokoro Fujii
|
2t9 2b6 | 47 |
References edit
- ^ "New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero". Siked!. 3 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ "IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 April 2017. Archived from the original on 24 April 2018. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes' Commission". OnBouldering.com. 11 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ "Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal". OnBouldering.com. 12 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Meiringen Bouldering World Cup 2017 Results". OnBouldering.com. 8 April 2017. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon claim the gold in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 23 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Nanjing Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 30 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 7 May 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Vail Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 11 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Coxsey and Chon take the gold in Navi Mumbai. Coxsey has secured the overall title". OnBouldering.com. 25 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Munich Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 19 August 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.