Miho Nonaka (野中 生萌, Nonaka Mihō, born May 21, 1997) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering.[1][2] She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal.[3]
 Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | May 21, 1997 Tokyo, Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 163 cm (5 ft 4 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 53 kg (117 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | https://mihounonaka.com/ | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Competition bouldering | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winner of Bouldering World Cup in 2018 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on July 8, 2021. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Life edit
Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first World Cup at age 17. She is one of the most successful young climbers on the Bouldering World Cup circuit and started competing in speed and lead[4] in preparation for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, where climbers were to compete in all disciplines.[5][6][7] In 2018, she won the Bouldering World Cup by earning one gold medal and six silver medals in the seven events of that season.[8]
In 2019, she won three Climbing Japan Cup competitions: Bouldering Japan Cup, Speed Japan Cup, and Combined Japan Cup.
In December 2020, Nonaka's qualification for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics was confirmed after a dispute between the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.[9][10][11] In 2022 she won bronze medal at the World Cup in Innsbruck.[12]
Rankings edit
Climbing World Cup[13] edit
| Discipline | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 42 | 55 | – | – | 46 | 23 | 19 | 26 | – | 14 |
| Bouldering | – | 5 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 1 | 15 | 5 | 2 | 2 |
| Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 43 | 30 | 9 | – | – |
| Combined | 5 | – | – | 8 | 3 | 4 | 6 |
Climbing World Championships edit
Youth[2]
| Discipline | 2015 Juniors |
2016 Juniors |
|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 2 | 4 |
Adult[2]
| Discipline | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | – | – | 16 | 26 | 8 |
| Bouldering | 15 | 2 | 5 | 5 | 24 |
| Speed | – | – | 25 | 25 | – |
| Combined | – | – | 5 | 5 | 7 |
World Cup podiums edit
Bouldering[2] edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2017 | 1 | 4 | 5 | |
| 2018 | 1 | 6 | 7 | |
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2022 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 4 | 10 | 10 | 24 |
Speed[2] edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
Notable Ascents edit
On September 15, 2021, Nonaka redpointed Mr. Hyde 8c+ (5.14c) in Céüse, France.[14]
References edit
- ^ "Miho Nonaka". Redbull. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
- ^ a b c d e IFSC, ed. (May 30, 2022). "Nonaka's profile and rankings". Retrieved May 30, 2022.
- ^ "Sport Climbing NONAKA Miho". Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 2021-08-04. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
- ^ Nagatsuka, Kaz (July 5, 2018). "Going up not only challenge for competitors in climbing" – via Japan Times Online.
- ^ "Miho Nonaka: Off the Wall". her. magazine. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
- ^ "The Rise of Miho Nonaka". Crux Crush. Archived from the original on 22 May 2019. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
- ^ "野中生萌公式サイト | mihounonaka.com". 野中生萌公式サイト | mihounonaka.com.
- ^ "Miho Nonaka and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup 2018". PlanetMountain.com.
- ^ "CAS rejects appeal against sport climbing qualification process for Tokyo 2020". www.insidethegames.biz. 14 December 2020. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- ^ "Japanese Climbing Federation Loses Lawsuit Against IFSC". www.gymclimber.com. 14 December 2020. Retrieved 25 September 2022.
- ^ Court of Arbitration for Sport (10 December 2020). "Arbitral Award for cases CAS 2019/A/6557 and CAS 2019/A/6663, JMSCA v. IFSC" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 10 October 2022.
- ^ "American Natalia Grossman wins boulder title at IFSC World Cup 2022 in Innsbruck". Olympics.com. International Olympic Committee. 2022-06-25. Retrieved 2022-06-26.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "Miho Nonaka climbs Mr Hyde 8c+ at Céüse". September 16, 2021. Retrieved July 13, 2023.
External links edit
- Miho Nonaka at Tenaya Sports at the Wayback Machine (archived 2018-11-28)
- Miho Nonaka at Olympics.com
- Miho Nonaka at Olympedia
- Miho Nonaka at the World Games
