Hong Kong street food is characterized as the ready-to-eat snacks and drinks sold by hawkers or vendors at food stalls, including egg waffles and stinky tofu, according to the definition provided by the Food and Agricultural Organization.[1]
Characteristics
editStreet food is ready to be taken away and eaten elsewhere instantly.[2] Generally, the customers are served snacks, which are contained in polystyrene boxes, with disposable bamboo sticks or plastic utensils. Street food sold is often cooked in oil such as fried squid legs and hawkers usually add sugar or salt for seasoning of food, such as egg waffles and grid cakes.
The nutritionists proves that, comparing to other food, street food sold is often cooked in greater portion of oil such as fried squid legs and hawkers usually add much sugar or salt for seasoning, such as grid cakes.[3]
According to travel websites- Timeout.com and About.com in 2013, the snacks prices averaged between $1 to $25 and were found to be most acceptable to Hongkongers.[4][5]
Cultural research suggests that food stalls supply a variety of snacks, including both local and international, ranging from red-bean pudding from Guangdong to Thai prawn cutlets. [6]
History
editAncient snack stalls in Hong Kong
editAccording to Tang Chih-yen (Chinese: 唐摭言, "selected words from Tang"), which traced back to the Tang dynasty when hawkers had sold cold food on the streets in order to get relief during summer heat. Then, during Qing dynasty, the street-side snack stalls gradually developed into street markets. [7] As highlighted in a feature article namely ‘Finding the Dining Habit of the Unemployed’ (Chinese: 尋找地踎飲食), the scene of hawkers carrying wood barrels, traditional wares and stoves has become part of the history of local street snacks. [8]
Development in 20th century
editIn the 1950s, facing the economic downturn and high unemployment rate, the majority of grass roots were forced to become itinerant hawkers to maintain their livelihood. Owing to the limited resources, rough canopies, cooking stove and wooden carts were used. Considering the effectiveness and convenience, they sold the snacks on mobile carts in the main streets to maximize revenue. [9] During the post-war period, the political stability and economic development of Hong Kong attracted immigrants from Mainland China.[10] At that time, 300,000 of them worked as hawkers, including street food hawkers. The growth in the number of itinerant hawkers fostered the development of street food culture. [11]
Contemporary development
editFrom the 1970s to 1980s, several changes concerning the development of street snacks were caused by the following factors.
Governmental factor
editIn 1970s, the government adopted an oppressive attitude towards hawkers instead of the laissez-faire approach adopted before.[12] This showed in the change in government policies. For example, the government stopped issuing itinerant hawker licenses to control the number of hawker stalls since 1979. Later, the Urban Council and the Regional Council implemented a policy to eliminate hawkers in 1995. [13] All of the above actions suppressed the prevalence of street food at that time.
Hygiene factor
editThe street snacks contained germs like cholera and Escherichia coli. According to a publicity film released by the Medical and Health Department in 1987, food stalls were considered unhygienic in terms of their environment and cooking process. As shown in the video, the hawker was smoking while selling snacks. [14] His stall was located beside a busy road and the floor was wet with rubbish and sewage. This unhygienic condition aroused customer concern, which acted as a catalyst for change.
Social factor
editOften crowds surrounding hawkers’ carts are seen as causing inconvenience to other pedestrians. In some cases, the elderly might slip as they walked over the puddles, while children might get hurt by the boiled oil from the stalls. [15] The safety concern and disturbance to the public aroused their discontent towards street hawkers.
Changes made in the contemporary society
editOver the past few decades, Hong Kong street food has changed its operation.
Introduction of new legislation
editThe government has set a quota in the licenses provided. According to the official document, they have let 233 contracts for fixed-pitch hawkers and 93 contracts for itinerant hawkers until 2011.[16] The number of hawkers has decreased compared to 2005, in which there were 1,075 contracts for fixed-pitch hawkers.[17] To maintain a safe and clean environment, the government has also controlled hawking activities through laws. They are listed below:
- Sections 83-86D of the Public Health and Municipal Services Ordinance (Cap.132);
- Hawker Regulation (Cap.132, sub.leg.);
- Food Business Regulation (Cap.132, sub.leg.); and
- Section 4A of the Summary Offences Ordinance (Cap.228).[18]
Improvement in hygiene condition
editStreet food is readily available for sale and hawkers keep them boiling during operation to prevent the growth of bacteria.[19] Fried food such as three stuffed treasures, are refried before being served to customers so as to lower the bacteria count.[20]
Change in operation mode
editDue to the limited supply of itinerant licenses and the introduction of a compulsory deletion policy, hawkers have a fixed bunk after moving into shopping malls.[21] The distribution of street snacks was geographically dispersed throughout Hong Kong before.[22] But nowadays, street snacks are mainly located in 6 districts, including Eastern, Central and Western, Wan Chai, Yau Tsim Mong, Sham Shui Po and Kowloon City.[23]
Importance to Hong Kong
editLocal tourism and international recognition
editThe worldwide popularity of local street snacks has fostered tourism in Hong Kong. It is recognized locally and internationally. The Hong Kong Tourism Board website featured street food as ‘must-eat food’.[24] While for the overseas media, the CNN travel has opened a column especially for Hong Kong street snack.[25] According to Reuters’ article, Hong Kong street food gourmets was ranked the first in the top 10 street-food cities by online travel advisor Cheapflights.com in 2013.[26] In short, the above honor has arisen Hong Kong citizens’ appreciation towards the local street food culture.
Demonstration of core values in Hong Kong
editStreet snacks has epitomized Hong Kong core values of cultural diversity. An example can be the emergence of street stalls selling foreign treats like Takoyaki and Indonesia skewers.[27] This showed the diversity of choices of street snacks and matches Hong Kong’s title of Gourmet Paradise. Despite all changes, it can also represent Hong Kong’s identity. For example, the name of ‘Hong Kong style Egg Waffle’ showed its local origin.[28] The alterable essence of local street food has demonstrated Hong Kong cultural acceptance. It is a medium for Hong Kong to display its character to the world as well.
References
edit- ^ Fellows, P. & Hilmi, M. (2011). Selling street and snack foods, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations: Rome. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ 香港街頭小吃, Wikipedia. Retrived 2014-10-24.
- ^ MSL Nutritional Diet Centre Website. Retrieved 2014-11-3
- ^ Lau & Gwun (2014).The last of the street hawkers. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ Boland, R. Mongkok Ladies Market Tour, About Travel. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ 香港「街頭小食」與香港文化認同, 白頌麒, 《嶺南大學 文化研究》, September 2007.
- ^ <自負>, 《唐摭言》卷十二, 王定保.
- ^ 柏齊, ＜尋找地踎飲食＞, HKEdCity website.
- ^ 消失中的小販文化, 梁燕玲,《嶺南大學 文化研究》, July, 2011
- ^ 香港戰後工業發展, 《香港記憶計劃》, 2012
- ^ Hawker (trade), Wikipedia. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ PARTICIPATING IN THE INFORMAL SECTOR: To be or not to be? Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ Hung, W. S. (2001), ＜大城市小人物──小販＞, Cyber Culture Express
- ^ 切勿光顧無牌熟食小販, publicity film (1987), Medical and Health Department
- ^ ＜誰的城市─戰後香港的公民文化與政治論述＞, 羅永生, Oxford University Press(Hong Kong). Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ Public Consultation on the Management of Fixed Pitch Hawker Areas. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ 呂國民, ＜澳門,新加坡,香港小販管理比較研究＞,《行政》第二十三卷, 澳門公共行政雜誌, 2012
- ^ Control of license and unlicensed hawkers – legislation. Retrieved 2014-10-29
- ^ ＜次文化 食在街邊＞,《大學線月刊》, Chinese University of Hong Kong. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ ＜香港街頭小食脂肪高含菌量超標＞,《大紀元》, 6 March 2006.
- ^ Public Consultation on the Management of Fixed Pitch Hawker Areas. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ 吳昊: 《飲食香江》(香港: SCMP Book Publishing Limited)
- ^ 43 fixed-pitch hawker areas.Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ Local Snacks, Hong Kong Tourism Board. Retrieved 2014-10-29.
- ^ Mok, C. (2010).Gai daan tsai challenge: The quest for Hong Kong's best egg waffle.
- ^ Casciato, P. (Ed). (2013).Travel Picks: Top 10 street-food cities. Retrieved 2014-11-4.
- ^ 香港「街頭小食」與香港文化認同, 白頌麒, 《嶺南大學 文化研究》, September 2007.
- ^ Christine Ho (2010).Kong Style Egg Waffle (雞蛋仔 Original Flavour)