Peter Habeler (born 22 July 1942)[1] is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria. He developed an interest in mountain climbing at age six.[2]

Peter Habeler
in 2017
Personal information
Born (1942-07-22) 22 July 1942 (age 81)
Mayrhofen, Tyrol, Austria
Occupation(s)Mountaineer, ski instructor
Climbing career
Known forMount Everest first ascent without supplemental oxygen
Major ascents

Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to take part in big wall climbing in Yosemite National Park.

He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. Several accomplishments in mountaineering followed. The most notable event was the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen on 8 May 1978 together with Messner, which was previously thought to be impossible.[3] A year after his climb on Everest he published Lonely Victory ("Der einsame Sieg". Autor: Eberhard Fuchs) in 1978.[4] Habeler set further records by descending from the summit to the South Col in only one hour and climbing the North Face of the Eiger in ten hours.[2]

Other eight-thousanders (mountains over 8,000 meters) that Habeler has summited are Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga and Gasherbrum I. He has also climbed Yerupaja Chico (6089 m) in Peru's Cordillera Huayhuash.[2] The ascent of Gasherbrum I was made with Messner in 1975,[5] Alpine-style in three days,[6] and is seen by some as ushering in a new era of Alpine-style ascents of eight-thousanders, in contrast to the "siege" tactics which had largely prevailed to this time. It was the first time an eight-thousander had been climbed Alpine-style.[6] Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000 but failed to do so due to fluid in his lungs.[7]

Habeler became a skiing instructor at age 21 and [2] founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria. The school is now run by his son, though Habeler still teaches on occasion.[4]

At age 74, he repeated an ascent on The Eiger's north face with David Lama.[8]


  1. ^ Peter Habeler (1978). Der einsame Sieg: Mount Everest '78, Goldmann. ISBN 3-442-03740-9
  2. ^ a b c d [permanent dead link]
  3. ^ "Men and the mountains". The Calgary Herald. 2008-11-13. Archived from the original on 2010-02-13. Retrieved 2010-07-10.
  4. ^ a b [permanent dead link]
  5. ^ Bruckner, D. J. R. (1982-12-12). "High Mountains And Far Places". The New York Times. Retrieved 2014-12-13.
  6. ^ a b Roberts, David (May 2004). "Messner's Burden". National Geographic Adventure. Archived from the original on 2012-04-04. Retrieved 2010-07-10.
  7. ^ [permanent dead link]
  8. ^ "Peter Habeler, Eiger, David Lama".