Oriane Bertone (born March 10, 2005, in Nice) is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.
 Oriane Bertone, Giravuelta | |||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | French | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | March 10, 2005 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 164 cm (5 ft 4⅛ in) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||
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| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Youngest person to solve a V14 (8B+) boulder problem | ||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Climbing career edit
Rock climbing edit
In 2018, when she was 12 years old, Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14 (8B+) graded boulder problem when she solved Golden Shadow in Rocklands (South Africa).[1] In 2020, aged 14, she redpointed the sport climbing route, Panonoramix et les cyclopes, in Saint Léger at grade 8c+ (5.14c).
Competition climbing edit
In 2019, she started competing in international youth competition climbing events where she won multiple gold medals in both competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. In April 2021, Bertone made her senior International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) competition debut at age 16 at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, where she advanced to the final and placed second.[2] Bertone qualified for the 2024 Paris Olympics by placing first in the European Olympic Qualifier.[3]
Rankings [4] edit
European youth championship edit
| Discipline | 2019
Youth B |
|---|---|
| Boulder | 1 |
| Lead | 1 |
Youth world championships edit
| Discipline | 2019
Youth B |
|---|---|
| Boulder | 1 |
| Lead | 1 |
European championships edit
| Discipline | 2022 |
|---|---|
| Boulder | 3 |
IFSC World Cup edit
Podiums edit
| Season | First | Second | Third | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2021 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2022 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2023 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| Total | 1 | 5 | 0 | 6 |
Notable ascents edit
Boulder problems edit
8C (V15):
- Satan I Helvete - Bas, Fontainebleau (France) - 2020 [5]
8B+ (V14):
- Golden Shadow - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2018 [1]
- Super Tanker - Fontainebleau (France) - 2021 [6]
8B (V13):
- Psychopad - Réunion - 2017[7]
- Le Spartiate direct assis - Réunion - 2018[8]
- Fragile Steps - RockLands (South Africa) - 2017[9]
- Trafic - Fontainebleau - 2018
- The master Key - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
- Bio Affinity - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
- Ray of light - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
- Leopard cave extended - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
- Agamemnon - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
- Fata I Helvete - Fontainebleau - 2020
Redpointed routes edit
8c+ (5.14c):
- Panonoramix et les cyclopes - Saint Léger - 2020
8c (5.14b):
- Chykungunya - Réunion - 2018[10]
- Stay Kratom, stay home - Saint Léger - 2020
- Panonoramix - Saint Léger - 2020
References edit
- ^ a b "12-year-old Oriane Bertone boulders 8B+". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
- ^ "Gold for Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra at Meiringen Boulder World Cup". Gripped. 17 April 2021.
- ^ "OLYMPIC TICKETS TO PARIS 2024 AWARDED TO ORIANE BERTONE AND TOBY ROBERTS". October 29, 2023. Retrieved October 29, 2023.
- ^ "Profile and ranking of Oriane Bertone". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
- ^ "Oriane Bertone, 15 Years Old, Climbs V15 First Ascent!". RockandIce.com. 27 May 2020. Retrieved 2020-05-27.
- ^ Brown, Nick (18 January 2021). "15-Year-Old Oriane Bertone Climbs Font 8B+".
- ^ "Psychopad, second 8B | V13 by Oriane Bertone". OnBouldering.com. 2017-12-12. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
- ^ Grimper. "Oriane Bertone ouvre un nouveau bloc extrême à la Réunion et propose 8b". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.
- ^ Staff, Climbing (20 January 2017). "Oriane Bertone Sends V13 at Age 11". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
- ^ Grimper. "Oriane Bertone s'offre un 8c/8c+". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.