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IFSC Climbing World Championships

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.[1][2][3][4]

The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

HistoryEdit

Creation and organisersEdit

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the first climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competitions.[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

EventsEdit

The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.[1][2][3] In 2018, an specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which will be used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

Paraclimbing was introduced at the 2012 World Championships, but from 2019 it became its own championship, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.

YearsEdit

The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.[citation needed]


ChampionshipsEdit

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
number lead speed boulder overall para
1 1991   Frankfurt 2 October 2 110 22 [8]
2 1993   Innsbruck 30 April 2 127 23 [9]
3 1995   Geneva 6 May 2 135 24 [10]
4 1997   Paris 1 February 2 153 26 [11]
5 1999   Birmingham 3 December 2 180 30 [12]
6 2001   Winterthur 5–8 September 3 198 25 [13]
7 2003   Chamonix 9–13 July 3 241 34 [14]
8 2005   Munich 1–5 July 3 318 51 [15]
9 2007   Avilés 17–23 September 3 302 50 [16]
10 2009   Xining 30 June – 5 July 4 219 44 [17]
11 2011   Arco 15–24 July 4 374 56 [18]
12 2012   Paris 12–16 September 5 331 56 [19][1]
13 2014   Munich 21–23 August 1 509 52 [1] [20][2]
  Gijón 8–14 September 4 [2]
14 2016   Paris 14–18 September 5 533 53 [3] [21][3][22]
15 2018   Innsbruck 6–16 September 5 834 58 [4] [23][4]
16 2019   Briançon 16–17 July 1
  Hachioji 11–21 August 4 253 39 [5] [24][25]
17 2021   Moscow[26] ?

Medal tableEdit

As of 2019 (Medals from Paraclimbing are not included in the table)[27][circular reference]

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Russia (RUS)16122452
2  France (FRA)12141642
3  Austria (AUT)116825
4  Ukraine (UKR)107421
5  Slovenia (SLO)85518
6  Czech Republic (CZE)610420
7  China (CHN)5319
8  Italy (ITA)5016
9  Japan (JPN)48618
10  Poland (POL)45716
11  Spain (ESP)4408
12   Switzerland (SUI)3159
13  Canada (CAN)3104
14  United States (USA)26210
15  Belgium (BEL)2608
16  South Korea (KOR)2518
17  Germany (GER)14813
18  Iran (IRN)1113
19  Kazakhstan (KAZ)0134
20  Venezuela (VEN)0101
21  Great Britain (GBR)0033
22  Netherlands (NED)0011
  Serbia (SRB)0011
Totals (23 nations)99100101300

Men's ResultsEdit

LeadEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   François Legrand   Yuji Hirayama   Guido Köstermeyer
1993   François Legrand   Stefan Glowacz   Yuji Hirayama
1995   François Legrand   Arnaud Petit   Elie Chevieux
1997   François Petit   Chris Sharma   François Legrand
1999   Bernardino Lagni   Yuji Hirayama   Maksym Petrenko
2001   Gérome Pouvreau   Tomáš Mrázek   François Petit
2003   Tomáš Mrázek   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   David Caude
2005   Tomáš Mrázek   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Alexandre Chabot
2007   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Cédric Lachat
  Tomáš Mrázek
  Jorg Verhoeven
2009   Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza   Adam Ondra   David Lama
2011   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Jakob Schubert   Adam Ondra
2012   Jakob Schubert   Sean McColl   Adam Ondra
2014   Adam Ondra   Ramón Julián Puigblanque   Sachi Amma
2016   Adam Ondra   Jakob Schubert   Gautier Supper
2018   Jakob Schubert   Adam Ondra   Alex Megos
2019   Adam Ondra   Alex Megos   Jakob Schubert

BoulderingEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001   Mauro Calibani   Frédéric Tuscan   Christian Core
2003   Christian Core   Jérôme Meyer   Tomasz Oleksy
2005   Salavat Rakhmetov   Kilian Fischhuber   Gérome Pouvreau
2007   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Martin Stranik   Cédric Lachat
2009   Alexey Rubtsov   Rustam Gelmanov   David Barrans
2011   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Adam Ondra   Rustam Gelmanov
2012   Dmitri Sarafutdinov   Kilian Fischhuber   Rustam Gelmanov
2014   Adam Ondra   Jernej Kruder   Jan Hojer
2016   Tomoa Narasaki   Adam Ondra   Manuel Cornu
2018   Kai Harada   Jongwon Chon   Gregor Vezonik
2019   Tomoa Narasaki   Jakob Schubert   Yannick Flohé

SpeedEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   Hans Florine   Jacky Godoffe   Kairat Rakhmetov
1993   Vladimir Netsvetaev   Serik Kazbekov   Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1995   Andrey Vedenmeer   Milan Benian   Vladimir Netsvetaev
1997   Daniel Andrada   Yevgen Kryvosheytsev   Dmitry Bychkov
1999   Vladimir Zakharov   Vladimir Netsvetaev   Alexey Gadeev
2001   Maksym Styenkovyy   Vladimir Zakharov   Tomasz Oleksy
2003   Maksym Styenkovyy   Tomasz Oleksy   Alexander Peshekhonov
2005   Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky   Maksym Styenkovyy   Sergey Sinitcyn
2007   Zhong Qixin   Manuel Escobar   Sergey Sinitcyn
2009 (10 m)   Zhong Qixin   Alexander Nigmatulin   Ivan Novikov
2009 (15 m)[28]   Zhong Qixin   Sergey Abdrakhmanov   Ning Zhang
2011   Zhong Qixin   Stanislav Kokorin   Danyil Boldyrev
2012   Zhong Qixin   Libor Hroza   Dmitry Timofeev
2014   Danyil Boldyrev   Stanislav Kokorin   Reza Alipour
2016   Marcin Dzieński   Reza Alipour   Aleksander Shikov
2018   Reza Alipour   Bassa Mawem   Stanislav Kokorin
2019   Ludovico Fossali   Jan Kriz   Stanislav Kokorin

CombinedEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012[1]   Sean McColl   Thomas Tauporn   Cédric Lachat
2014[2]   Sean McColl   Jan Hojer   Levier Alban
2016[3][22]   Sean McColl   Manuel Cornu   David Firnenburg
2018[4]   Jakob Schubert   Adam Ondra   Jan Hojer
2019   Tomoa Narasaki   Jakob Schubert   Rishat Khaibullin

Women's ResultsEdit

LeadEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   Susi Good   Isabelle Patissier   Robyn Erbesfield
1993   Susi Good   Robyn Erbesfield   Isabelle Patissier
1995   Robyn Erbesfield   Laurence Guyon   Liv Sansoz
1997   Liv Sansoz   Muriel Sarkany   Marietta Uhden
1999   Liv Sansoz   Muriel Sarkany   Elena Ovtchinnikova
2001   Martina Cufar   Muriel Sarkany   Chloé Minoret
2003   Muriel Sarkany   Emilie Pouget   Sandrine Levet
2005   Angela Eiter   Emily Harrington   Akiyo Noguchi
2007   Angela Eiter   Muriel Sarkany   Maja Vidmar
2009   Johanna Ernst   Kim Ja-in   Maja Vidmar
2011   Angela Eiter   Kim Ja-in   Magdalena Röck
2012   Angela Eiter   Kim Ja-in   Johanna Ernst
2014   Kim Ja-in   Mina Markovič   Magdalena Röck
2016   Janja Garnbret   Anak Verhoeven   Mina Markovič
2018   Jessica Pilz   Janja Garnbret   Kim Ja-in
2019   Janja Garnbret   Mia Krampl   Ai Mori

BoulderingEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001   Myriam Motteau   Sandrine Levet   Nataliya Perlova
2003   Sandrine Levet   Nataliya Perlova   Fanny Rogeaux
2005   Olga Shalagina   Yulia Abramchuk   Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
2007   Anna Stöhr   Akiyo Noguchi   Olga Bibik
2009   Yulia Abramchuk   Olga Shalagina   Anna Stöhr
2011   Anna Stöhr   Sasha DiGiulian   Juliane Wurm
2012   Mélanie Sandoz   Olga Yakovleva   Anna Stöhr
2014   Juliane Wurm   Alex Puccio   Akiyo Noguchi
2016   Petra Klingler   Miho Nonaka   Akiyo Noguchi
2018   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Staša Gejo
2019   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey

SpeedEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991   Isabelle Dorsimond   Agnès Brard   Venera Chereshneva
1993   Olga Bibik   Isabelle Dorsimond   Renata Piszczek
1995   Natalie Richer   Cecile Avezou   Renata Piszczek
1997   Tatiana Ruyga   Irina Zaytseva   Olga Bibik
1999   Olga Zakharova   Olena Ryepko   Natalia Novikova
2001   Olena Ryepko   Maya Piratinskaya   Svetlana Sutkina
2003   Olena Ryepko   Tatiana Ruyga   Valentina Yurina
2005   Olena Ryepko   Valentina Yurina   Edyta Ropek
2007   Tatiana Ruyga   Edyta Ropek   Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m)   He Cuilian   He Cuifang   Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m)   He Cuilian   He Cuifang   Li Chunhua
2011   Maria Krasavina   Anna Tsyganova   Tamara Kuznetsova
2012   Yulia Levochkina   Yulia Kaplina   Natalia Titova
2014   Alina Gaidamakina   Klaudia Buczek   Aleksandra Rudzinska
2016   Anna Tsyganova   Anouck Jaubert   Yulia Kaplina
2018   Aleksandra Rudzinska   Anna Brozek   Maria Krasavina
2019   Aleksandra Miroslaw   Di Nui   Anouck Jaubert

CombinedEdit

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012   Kim Ja-in   Cecile Avezou   Petra Klingler
2014[2]   Charlotte Durif   Petra Klingler   Mina Markovič
2016[3][22]   Elena Krasovskaya   Claire Buhrfeind   Charlotte Durif
2018[4]   Janja Garnbret   Sa Sol   Jessica Pilz
2019   Janja Garnbret   Akiyo Noguchi   Shauna Coxsey

See alsoEdit

ReferencesEdit

  1. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  2. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  5. ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  6. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  7. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  8. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. ^ "UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  15. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  20. ^ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/world-championships
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  22. ^ a b c "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  24. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  26. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  27. ^ fr:Championnats du monde d'escalade
  28. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed".

External linksEdit