Wikipedia

Speed climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Competition speed climbing in the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 12 April to 20 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Bassa Mawem won the men's seasonal title, YiLing Song won the women's seasonal title, and Russian Federation defended its national team title.[1][2]

Speed climbing
at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates12 April – 20 October 2019
Champions
MenFrance Bassa Mawem
WomenChina YiLing Song
← 2018
2021 →

Winners overview edit

Date Location Men Women
April, 12–14   Moscow, Russia   Bassa Mawem   YiLing Song
April, 26–28   Chongqing, China   Alfian Muhammad   YiLing Song
May, 3–5   Wujiang, China   Dmitrii Timofeev   Aleksandra Miroslaw
July, 4–6   Villars, Switzerland   Aleksandr Shikov   Anouck Jaubert
July, 11–13   Chamonix, France   Alfian Muhammad   YiLing Song
October, 18–20   Xiamen, China   QiXin Zhong   Aries Susanti Rahayu
OVERALL WINNERS   Bassa Mawem   YiLing Song
NATIONAL TEAM   Russian Federation

Records broken edit

Event Round Climber Location Time Date
Women's speed Final   YiLing Song Chongqing, China 7.101[3] April 26, 2019
  Aries Susanti Rahayu Xiamen, China 6.995[4] October 19, 2019

Overall ranking edit

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men edit

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[5]

Rank NAME Points Xiamen Chamonix Villars Wujiang Chongqing Moscow
1   Bassa Mawem 329.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 15. (22.00) 1. 100.00
2   Vladislav Deulin 312.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 14. (24.00) 2. 80.00
3   Alfian Muhammad 286.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 20. 12.00 10. 34.00 1. 100.00 24. (7.00)
4   QiXin Zhong 285.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 7. 43.00 24. 7.00 4. 55.00 ( — )
5   Dmitrii Timofeev 283.00 7. 43.00 16. 20.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 16. (20.00) 8. 40.00
6   Reza Alipourshenazandifar 236.00 6. 47.00 23. (8.00) 8. 40.00 4. 55.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00
7   Sergey Rukin 234.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 16. 20.00 ( — ) 3. 65.00 6. 47.00
8   Aleksandr Shikov 203.00 12. 28.00 14. 24.00 1. 100.00 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51.00
9   Kostiantyn Pavlenko 181.00 22. 9.00 11. 31.00 19. 14.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 ( — )
10   Jan Kriz 162.00 24. (7.00) 18. 16.00 3. 65.00 7. 43.00 18. 16.00 15. 22.00

Women edit

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[6]

Rank NAME Points Xiamen Chamonix Villars Wujiang Chongqing Moscow
1   YiLing Song 460.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 16. (20.00) 1. 100.00 1. 100.00
2   Anouck Jaubert 355.00 4. 55.00 16. (20.00) 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00
3   Aries Susanti Rahayu 333.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 19. (14.00) 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 6. 47.00
4   Elizaveta Ivanova 261.00 29. (2.00) 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 5. 51.00
5   Di Niu 201.00 7. 43.00 15. 22.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 ( — )
6   Anna Tsyganova 197.00 ( — ) ( — ) 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 8. 40.00 4. 55.00
7   Aleksandra Kalucka 194.00 20. (12.00) 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 8. 40.00 14. 24.00 7. 43.00
8   Patrycja Chudziak 188.00 ( — ) 7. 43.00 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 16. 20.00 11. 31.00
9   Aleksandra Miroslaw 180.00 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 ( — )
10   Iuliia Kaplina 172.00 18. 16.00 ( — ) ( — ) 13. 26.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00

National Teams edit

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[7]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Xiamen Chamonix Villars Wujiang Chongqing Moscow
1   Russian Federation 1637 318 294 383 293 (292) 349
2   People's Republic of China 1375 343 268 263 209 292 (180)
3   France 1004 204 (113) 219 215 129 237
4   Indonesia 979 172 232 (46) 187 250 138
5   Poland 874 (59) 210 149 217 184 114
6   Ukraine 328 35 86 61 57 89 ( — )
7   Islamic Republic of Iran 257 51 (8) 40 55 51 60
8   Italy 250 (0) 15 50 83 12 90
9   Ecuador 195 26 65 35 36 (22) 33
10   Czech Republic 162 (7) 16 65 43 16 22

Moscow, Russia (April, 12–14) edit

Men edit

91 men attended the event.[8]

France's Bassa Mawem took the win. Russia's Vladislav Deulin placed second while Indonesia's Aspar Jaelolo placed third. World record holder, Iran's Reza Alipourshenazandifar placed 7th.[9]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Bassa Mawem 5.730 5.656 5.761 5.792 5.699
    Vladislav Deulin 11.545 5.919 5.864 6.021 5.874
    Aspar Jaelolo 6.083 Sturz 6.617 6.780 5.838
4   Long Cao 10.004 6.663 9.391 5.797 5.731
5   Aleksandr Shikov 7.126 5.891 6.096
6   Sergey Rukin 7.263 5.908 5.809
7   Reza Alipourshenazandifar 7.587 5.922 5.826
8   Dmitrii Timofeev Sturz 5.927 5.913
9   Aleksandr Shilov 6.068 6.207
10   Stanislav Kokorin 6.094 6.163
11   Amir Maimuratov 6.096 6.083
12   Gian Luca Zodda 6.310 6.230
13   Georgy Artamonov 6.804 6.162
14   Ludovico Fossali 6.960 6.157
15   Jan Kriz 7.665 6.222
16   Lev Rudatskiy 7.681 6.138

Women edit

76 women attended the event.[10]

China's YiLing Song won her first gold medal in the World Cup circuit after a tight race in the final against France's Anouck Jaubert who took second place. Russia's Iuliia Kaplina took third place.[9]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    YiLing Song 7.389 7.435 7.723 7.668 7.880
    Anouck Jaubert 7.682 8.363 7.800 8.372 8.024
    Iuliia Kaplina 8.233 7.444 7.562 7.721 7.464
4   Anna Tsyganova Sturz Sturz 7.833 8.036 7.999
5   Elizaveta Ivanova 7.796 7.990 8.130
6   Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.915 7.792 7.711
7   Aleksandra Kalucka 9.684 8.639 8.438
8   Elena Remizova 10.717 8.159 7.860
9   Aurelia Sarisson 8.341 8.462
10   Anna Calanca 8.477 8.544
11   Patrycja Chudziak 8.480 8.395
12   Andrea Rojas 8.614 8.590
13   Ekaterina Barashchuk 8.815 8.577
14   MingWei Ni 10.019 7.967
15   Anna Brozek 10.419 8.259
16   Mariia Krasavina Sturz 8.102

Chongqing, China (April, 26–28) edit

Men edit

85 men attended the event.[11]

Indonesia's Alfian Muhammad took the win. Ukraine's Kostiantyn Pavlenko placed second and Russia's Sergey Rukin third. France's Bassa Mawem, Moscow's winner, was eliminated early in the competition, placing 15th.[12][13]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Alfian Muhammad 5.970 6.100 5.961 5.963 5.914
    Kostiantyn Pavlenko 6.315 5.799 5.997 6.130 6.206
    Sergey Rukin 6.808 9.842 6.637 5.813 6.020
4   QiXin Zhong Sturz 5.820 5.616 5.912 5.618
5   Reza Alipourshenazandifar 5.733 5.996 6.115
6   Nikolai Iarilovets 6.310 6.345 6.263
7   ZhiYong Ou 7.034 8.427 6.279
8   Fatchur Roji 7.518 6.327 6.212
9   Marcin Dzienski 6.080 6.317
10   JinBao Long 6.164 6.128
11   Aspar Jaelolo 6.286 5.876
12   Aleksandr Shilov 7.379 6.085
13   ZhiXing Chen 8.115 5.842
14   Vladislav Deulin 8.936 6.133
15   Bassa Mawem Sturz 5.677
16   Dmitrii Timofeev Sturz 5.827

Women edit

74 women attended the event.[14]

China's YiLing Song won her second gold medal. Song also set a new world record (7.101 seconds) in the quarter-final race against Poland’s Natalia Kalucka. Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw took silver and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina took bronze.[12][13]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    YiLing Song 7.673 7.110 7.101 7.687 7.471
    Aleksandra Miroslaw Sturz 7.368 7.564 7.765 7.484
    Iuliia Kaplina 8.429 Sturz 8.180 7.491 7.618
4   Anouck Jaubert Sturz 7.321 7.400 7.818 7.738
5   Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.429 7.652 7.739
6   Elena Timofeeva 7.934 7.939 8.042
7   Natalia Kalucka 7.975 8.245 8.205
8   Anna Tsyganova Sturz 7.957 7.990
9   Elizaveta Ivanova 7.672 8.218
10   Di Niu 8.065 8.212
11   Aurelia Sarisson 8.127 8.358
12   Iqamah Nurul 8.274 8.334
13   PeiYang Tian 8.281 8.174
14   Aleksandra Kalucka 8.856 8.312
15   MingWei Ni 8.913 8.213
16   Patrycja Chudziak 10.740 8.310

Wujiang, China (May, 3–5) edit

Men edit

85 men attended the event.[15]

Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev beat France's Bassa Mawem in the final race and claimed the gold medal. Mawem took second place while Italy's Ludovico Fossali took third place.[16]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Dmitrii Timofeev 5.597 5.580 5.695 5.856 5.683
    Bassa Mawem 5.810 5.962 5.855 5.889 5.769
    Ludovico Fossali 5.856 6.566 5.783 6.066 6.182
4   Reza Alipourshenazandifar 6.436 5.627 5.739 5.904 5.657
5   Vladislav Deulin 5.843 6.015 5.932
6   Kostiantyn Pavlenko 5.848 5.984 5.964
7   Jan Kriz 5.926 6.034 6.059
8   ZhiXing Chen 8.279 6.438 5.820
9   Fatchur Roji 6.002 6.112
10   Alfian Muhammad 6.064 5.812
11   PengHui Lin 6.114 6.028
12   Arsenii Bogomolov 6.129 6.053
13   Marcin Dzienski 6.202 6.179
14   Aleksandr Shilov 6.440 6.138
15   Aspar Jaelolo 7.097 5.598
16   ZhiYong Ou 8.354 6.054

Women edit

68 women attended the event.[17]

Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw won the gold medal after a tight final race against Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu. Rahayu placed second while France's Anouck Jaubert placed third. China's YiLing Song, who had just set a new world record last week in Chongqing, slipped in an early race against Poland’s Aleksandra Kalucka and finished the competition in 16th place.[16]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Aleksandra Miroslaw 7.313 7.280 7.624 7.541 7.285
    Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.607 7.717 7.828 8.197 7.793
    Anouck Jaubert 7.516 7.668 7.778 7.927 7.732
4   Anna Tsyganova 7.541 7.720 8.592 7.838 8.089
5   Patrycja Chudziak 7.957 8.028 8.071
6   Di Niu 8.811 8.148 8.287
7   Aurelia Sarisson 10.566 8.275 8.233
8   Aleksandra Kalucka Sturz 9.173 8.291
9   MingWei Ni 8.080 7.971
10   PeiYang Tian 8.226 8.219
11   Elena Timofeeva 8.673 7.960
12   Elizaveta Ivanova 8.985 7.774
13   Iuliia Kaplina 8.991 7.684
14   Anna Brozek 9.038 8.368
15   Andrea Rojas 9.807 8.260
16   YiLing Song 13.652 7.566

Villars, Switzerland (July, 4–6) edit

Men edit

84 men attended the event.[18]

Russia's Aleksandr Shikov and Dmitrii Timofeev placed first and second respectively. The Czech Republic’s Jan Kriz beat France's Bassa Mawem in the small final and earned a bronze medal.[19]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Aleksandr Shikov 5.542 5.892 6.880 6.355 5.630
    Dmitrii Timofeev Sturz 5.513 5.735 6.354 5.716
    Jan Kriz 7.765 6.078 5.997 6.182 6.040
4   Bassa Mawem Sturz 5.573 5.655 5.765 5.686
5   Vladislav Deulin 5.754 5.899 5.956
6   Danyil Boldyrev 6.011 6.032 5.964
7   QiXin Zhong Sturz 20.000 5.873
8   Reza Alipourshenazandifar Fehlstart 6.075 5.923
9   Ludovico Fossali 5.863 6.142
10   Lev Rudatskiy 6.300 5.803
11   JinBao Long 6.556 5.755
12   Long Cao 6.970 5.799
13   Aleksandr Shilov 7.367 6.099
14   Rishat Khaibullin 7.499 6.149
15   Seungbeom Lee Sturz 5.871
16   Sergey Rukin Fehlstart 5.909

Women edit

73 women attended the event.[20]

France's Anouck Jaubert took the gold medal after winning a final race against China's YiLing Song. Song earned a silver medal while Russia's Elizaveta Ivanova earned bronze after beating China's Di Niu in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Anouck Jaubert 7.660 20.000 7.590 7.738 7.638
    YiLing Song 8.415 7.428 7.239 7.483 7.224
    Elizaveta Ivanova 7.586 Fehlstart 7.359 8.746 7.602
4   Di Niu 10.657 7.914 8.475 8.171 8.345
5   Natalia Kalucka 7.898 7.996 8.115
6   Anna Tsyganova 8.064 9.248 8.311
7   Patrycja Chudziak 8.236 8.277 8.208
8   Kseniia Petrova 9.368 8.799 8.478
9   Anna Brozek 8.285 8.257
10   Miho Nonaka 8.432 8.571
11   Capucine Viglione 8.478 8.642
12   Andrea Rojas 8.964 8.626
13   MingWei Ni 9.056 7.833
14   Mariia Krasavina 9.288 8.011
15   Aleksandra Kalucka 9.476 7.959
16   Iqamah Nurul 10.137 8.239

Chamonix, France (July, 11–13) edit

Men edit

97 men attended the event.[21]

Indonesia's Alfian Muhammad took the win. China's QiXin Zhong placed second while Russia's Vladislav Deulin placed third.[22]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Alfian Muhammad 5.764 5.690 6.037 5.854 6.174
    QiXin Zhong 6.382 5.698 5.840 5.986 5.708
    Vladislav Deulin 6.057 5.799 99.000 6.402 6.055
4   Danyil Boldyrev Sturz 5.848 99.000 5.857 5.862
5   Marcin Dzienski 6.362 6.087 6.035
6   Sergey Rukin 7.448 5.835 5.980
7   Bassa Mawem Fehlstart 5.947 5.793
8   John Brosler Fehlstart 6.096 6.097
9   Aspar Jaelolo 5.878 5.998
10   Seungbeom Lee 5.943 6.064
11   Kostiantyn Pavlenko 5.993 6.156
12   Stanislav Kokorin 6.180 6.185
13   Long Cao 7.407 5.829
14   Aleksandr Shikov 7.494 5.918
15   Aleksandr Shilov 7.899 5.975
16   Dmitrii Timofeev Sturz 5.780

Women edit

83 women attended the event.[23]

China's YiLing Song earned a gold medal. Russia's Elizaveta Ivanova placed second while Poland's Aleksandra Kalucka placed third.[22]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    YiLing Song 99.000 7.254 7.291 7.562 7.842
    Elizaveta Ivanova Fehlstart 7.556 7.686 7.784 7.824
    Aleksandra Kalucka 7.661 7.626 7.687 7.825 8.161
4   Aries Susanti Rahayu Sturz 9.808 7.816 7.988 7.885
5   Anna Brozek 7.970 8.195 8.493
6   Andrea Rojas 8.318 9.263 8.538
7   Patrycja Chudziak 8.347 8.599 8.204
8   Mariia Krasavina 8.548 8.234 8.203
9   Iqamah Nurul 8.352 8.719
10   Elena Remizova 8.366 8.667
11   MingWei Ni 9.037 8.680
12   Alexandra Elmer 9.037 9.002
13   Capucine Viglione 9.090 8.937
14   Kseniia Petrova 9.282 8.508
15   Di Niu 9.676 8.780
16   Anouck Jaubert Sturz 8.886

Xiamen, China (October, 18–20) edit

Men edit

65 men attended the event.[24]

China's QiXin Zhong won the gold medal. Russia's Lev Rudatskiy and Vladislav Deulin placed second and third respectively.[25][26]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    QiXin Zhong 7.208 5.568 5.528 5.754 5.490
    Lev Rudatskiy Sturz 5.528 6.305 5.733 5.872
    Vladislav Deulin 5.635 5.560 5.608 5.822 5.832
4   Sergey Rukin 5.763 5.899 Wildcard 5.922 5.968
5   Bassa Mawem 5.806 5.855 5.950
6   Reza Alipourshenazandifar 6.366 7.383 5.658
7   Dmitrii Timofeev 6.457 5.735 5.648
8   Alfian Muhammad Fehlstart 5.759 5.668
9   Seungbeom Lee 5.856 5.988
10   JinBao Long 5.904 5.953
11   PengHui Lin 5.914 5.967
12   Aleksandr Shikov 5.950 5.762
13   Rishat Khaibullin 6.012 5.887
14   Pierre Rebreyend 6.064 6.057
15   Fatchur Roji 6.795 6.041
16   Aleksandr Shilov 8.823 5.999

Women edit

51 women attended the event.[27]

Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu set a new world record (6.995 seconds) in the final race against China's YiLing Song and claimed the gold medal. Rahayu also became the first woman in the history to break the 7-second barrier. Song claimed the silver while Russia's Mariia Krasavina claimed the bronze.[25][26]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
    Aries Susanti Rahayu 6.995 7.163 7.311 7.387 7.204
    YiLing Song 9.032 7.169 7.201 8.699 7.423
    Mariia Krasavina 7.947 Sturz 7.287 7.554 7.707
4   Anouck Jaubert 14.375 7.698 7.442 7.770 7.592
5   LiJuan Deng 7.398 7.631 8.207
6   PeiYang Tian 7.684 8.182 8.097
7   Di Niu 8.132 7.763 7.718
8   Aurelia Sarisson 8.226 8.017 8.152
9   Elena Remizova 7.985 8.712
10   Victoire Andrier 8.159 8.486
11   Natalia Kalucka 8.302 8.415
12   LiRong Yan 8.457 8.508
13   Tetiana Kolkotina 8.715 8.635
14   Andrea Rojas 8.718 8.602
15   Sol Sa 8.956 8.712
16   GuiZhen Xie 9.284 8.528

References edit

  1. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  2. ^ "Competition calendar 2019".
  3. ^ "New Women's Speed World Record by Song Yi Ling".
  4. ^ "Aries Susati Pecahkan Rekor Dunia Panjat Tebing". CNN Indonesia. 20 October 2019.
  5. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N SPEED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  6. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N SPEED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  7. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  8. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  9. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Moscow World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. 2019-04-15. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  10. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  11. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  12. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chongqing World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. 2019-04-30. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  13. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC World Cup Chongqing - Boulder & Speed Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  14. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  15. ^ "General result M E N speed".
  16. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Wujiang World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. 2019-05-06. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  17. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  18. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  19. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Villars World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-08. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  20. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  21. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  22. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chamonix World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-15. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  23. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  24. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  25. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-10-21. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  26. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup 2019: Xiamen - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  27. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
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