Wikipedia

Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China.[1]

Lead climbing
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates23 June – 4 September 2021
Champions
MenItaly Stefano Ghisolfi
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret
← 2020
2022 →

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title.[2]

Overview edit

Date Location Venue Route-setters* Men Women
June, 23–26   Innsbruck, Austria Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[3]
  •   Adam Pustelnik
  •   Jan Zbranek
  •   Okano Hiroshi
   Jakob Schubert   Janja Garnbret
July, 1–3   Villars, Switzerland Place du Rendez-Vous[4]
  •   Julien Gras
  •   Christian Bindhammer
  •   Reinhard Fichtinger
   Sean Bailey   Janja Garnbret
July, 12–13   Chamonix, France Place du Mont Blanc[5]
  •   Marcin Wszolek
  •   Vincent De Girolamo
  •   Florian Murnig
   Sean Bailey   Laura Rogora
July, 17–18   Briançon, France Parc des Sports[6]
  •   Martin Hammerer
  •   Anna Gallyamova
  •   Alberto Gnerro
   Stefano Ghisolfi   Eliška Adamovská
September, 3–4   Kranj, Slovenia Dvorana Zlato polje[7]
  •   Vincent De Girolamo
  •   Julien Gras
  •   Martin Hammerer
   Masahiro Higuchi   Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS   Stefano Ghisolfi   Janja Garnbret
NATIONAL TEAM   Slovenia

* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking edit

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men edit

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[8]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1   Stefano Ghisolfi 319 2. 80 11. 31 2. 80 1. 100 12. 28
2   Sean Bailey 277 ( — ) 1. 100 1. 100 4. 55 15. 22
3   Masahiro Higuchi 263 4. 55 7. 43 9. 37 12. 28 1. 100
4   Luka Potočar 212 7. 43 25. 6 7. 43 8. 40 2. 80
5   Sascha Lehmann 204 3. 65 12. 28 4. 55 5. 51 26. 5
6   Martin Stráník 192.87 12. 28 32. 0.87 3. 65 3. 65 10. 34
7   Alberto Ginés López 169 5. 51 5. 51 14. 24 7. 43 ( — )
8   Sebastian Halenke 160.0 57. 0 4. 55 15. 22 17. 18 3. 65
9   Domen Škofic 135 17. 18 15. 22 25. 6 10. 34 4. 55
10   Alexander Megos 127 6. 47 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — )

Women edit

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[9]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1   Janja Garnbret 300 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100
2   Natalia Grossman 296 25. 6 3. 65 2. 80 2. 80 3. 65
3   Laura Rogora 278 7. 43 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 4. 55
4   Vita Lukan 269 6. 47 5. 51 4. 55 3. 65 5. 51
5   Lucka Rakovec 185 8. 40 7. 43 23. 8 6. 47 6. 47
6   Aleksandra Totkova 168 18. 16 6. 47 3. 65 8. 40 ( — )
7   Eliška Adamovská 162 12. 28 ( — ) 10. 34 1. 100 ( — )
8   Momoko Abe 146 13. 26 4. 55 11. 31 25. 6 12. 28
9   Natsuki Tanii 128 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51 9. 37 8. 40
9   Lana Skusek 128 16. 20 11. 31 43. 0 7. 43 10. 34

National Teams edit

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1   Slovenia 1244.0 2. 274.0 2. 229.0 5. 135.0 1. 230.0 1. 376.0
2   1041.0 1. 279.0 3. 193.0 4. 158.0 5. 134.0 2. 277.0
3   United States 905.95 5. 110.55 1. 269.0 2. 237.0 2. 200.5 5. 88.9
4   Italy 796.8 3. 149.75 6. 132.85 1. 244.5 4. 164.0 4. 105.7
5   France 593.95 8. 80.75 5. 147.2 3. 192.0 7. 87.0 6. 87.0
6   Germany 547.2 10. 57.2 4. 159.0 7. 91.35 6. 95.85 3. 143.8
7   Czech Republic 396.55 7. 96.0 19. 0.9 6. 99.85 3. 165.8 13. 34.0
8   Austria 364.25 4. 117.65 7. 71.75 13. 35.5 9. 77.75 8. 61.6
9   Switzerland 340.15 6. 96.3 9. 50.4 8. 86.8 10. 70.95 12. 35.7
10   Russia 262.55 9. 57.75 11. 41.8 12. 40.0 8. 80.0 11. 43.0

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 23–26) edit

Men edit

99 men competed in the event.[11]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann took third place after pushing Japan's Masahiro Higuchi to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th.[12]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Jakob Schubert 38 1 38+ 3 1.73 39+ 47+
    Stefano Ghisolfi 37 3 35 6 5.1 31+ 47
    Sascha Lehmann 34+ 8 31+ 14 11.62 39+ 38+
4   Masahiro Higuchi 37 3 11 89 18.97 34+ 38+
5   Alberto Ginés López 32 16 34+ 8 12.33 41+ 37+
6   Alexander Megos 37 3 39+ 2 2.83 38+ 37+
7   Luka Potočar 32+ 13 23 34 21.82 39+ 27+
8   Adam Ondra 37+ 2 TOP 1 1.41 42+ 17

Women edit

75 women competed in the event.[13]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third.[12]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.41 42+ TOP
    Brooke Raboutou 39+ 4 TOP 1 2.83 36.5+ 40
    Akiyo Noguchi 31 11 35+ 4 7.5 32+ 33+
4   Viktoriia Meshkova 31+ 7 33+ 10 10.91 35 22+
5   Miho Nonaka 31 11 33+ 10 13.23 32 22+
6   Vita Lukan 41 3 34 7 4.9 35+ 19+
7   Laura Rogora 46+ 2 TOP 1 2.0 42 13+
8   Lucka Rakovec 33 5 34 7 6.32 36.5+ 13+

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3) edit

Men edit

68 men competed in the event.[14]

USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third.[15][16]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Sean Bailey TOP 1 32+ 18 9.64 40 38
    Alexander Megos 39+ 8 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 35+
    Colin Duffy 38+ 16 TOP 1 7.04 36 31+
4   Sebastian Halenke 39+ 8 32+ 18 18.04 37+ 26.5+
5   Alberto Ginés López 39+ 8 33 15 12.96 40+ 26.5
6   Paul Jenft 35 21 TOP 1 8.31 36 26
7   Masahiro Higuchi 39+ 8 32+ 18 18.04 37+ 12
8   Zento Murashita 35 21 34 8 14.78 36+ 11+

Women edit

53 women competed in the event.[17]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze.[15][16]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.41 TOP TOP
    Laura Rogora 20+ 17 TOP 1 7.35 45+ TOP
    Natalia Grossman 35+ 5 40+ 4 5.24 34+ 42+
4   Momoko Abe 36+ 3 TOP 1 2.65 35+ 40+
5   Vita Lukan 20+ 17 40+ 4 12.19 35+ 40+
6   Aleksandra Totkova 32+ 6 35+ 11 8.46 36+ 33+
7   Lucka Rakovec 37 2 40+ 4 3.32 40+ 17+
8   Mia Krampl 36+ 3 35 12 6.48 35 17+

Chamonix, France (July, 12–13) edit

Men edit

73 men competed in the event.[18]

USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back.[19][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Sean Bailey 37+ 5 40 10 8.31 43 34+
    Stefano Ghisolfi 32+ 26 TOP 1 11.62 46 32
    Martin Stráník 35+ 10 39 17 14.9 43 32
4   Sascha Lehmann 37 8 TOP 1 6.0 47+ 29
5   Victor Baudrand TOP 1 38 21 5.61 41+ 28+
6   Marcello Bombardi 35+ 10 40+ 9 10.39 41+ 26+
7   Luka Potočar 33+ 19 40 10 15.91 45 25+
8   Paul Jenft 32+ 26 TOP 1 11.62 45+ 25

Women edit

62 women competed in the event.[21]

Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's Aleksandra Totkova placed third.[19][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Laura Rogora 44+ 21 TOP 1 9.81 TOP TOP
    Natalia Grossman 50 2 TOP 1 3.24 TOP 41+
    Aleksandra Totkova 50 2 48 7 4.58 TOP 38+
4   Vita Lukan 49+ 5 41+ 12 8.49 TOP 38+
5   Natsuki Tanii 44+ 21 47 8 14.83 TOP 32+
6   Julia Chanourdie 49 8 TOP 1 5.77 TOP 29+
7   Ashima Shiraishi 47 18 40+ 14 15.87 TOP 29+
8   Dinara Fakhritdinova 49 8 TOP 1 5.77 TOP 28+

Briançon, France (July, 17–18) edit

Men edit

68 men competed in the event.[22]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi fell high on the head-wall and won the gold medal. Russia's Dmitrii Fakirianov and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník placed second and third respectively.[23][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Stefano Ghisolfi 32+ 2 32+ 4 3.0 42+ 42+
    Dmitrii Fakirianov 15 52 33+ 2 11.51 40+ 39+
    Martin Stráník 29+ 3 29 8 5.66 39+ 37+
4   Sean Bailey 29+ 3 27 16 8.0 42+ 36
5   Sascha Lehmann 22+ 16 32+ 4 9.25 37+ 35
6   Fedir Samoilov 29 6 27+ 13 9.54 37 35
7   Alberto Ginés López 22+ 16 33+ 2 6.89 37 27+
8   Luka Potočar 33 1 30+ 7 2.65 37 22

Women edit

56 women competed in the event.[24]

Czech Republic's Eliška Adamovská claimed her first gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Slovenia's Vita Lukan placed third.[23][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Eliška Adamovská 30 5 27+ 17 9.35 TOP 36
    Natalia Grossman 34+ 1 36 1 1.0 TOP 35+
    Vita Lukan 12 49 35+ 2 13.1 TOP 29
4   Ashima Shiraishi 23+ 23 32+ 8 13.98 TOP 27+
5   Ryu Nakagawa 31+ 3 24 37 11.53 36+ 27+
6   Lucka Rakovec 33+ 2 35+ 2 2.65 TOP 26+
7   Lana Skusek 28+ 7 34+ 6 7.55 38 24+
8   Aleksandra Totkova 27+ 14 28 15 14.73 41 22+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 3–4) edit

Men edit

61 men competed in the event.[25]

Japan's Masahiro Higuchi won his first World Cup gold medal. Slovenia's Luka Potočar placed second and Germany's Sebastian Halenke placed second and third respectively on count-back. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi, placing 12th in the competition, was crowned this season overall Lead World Cup champion.[26]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Masahiro Higuchi 29+ 14 37+ 8 12.96 41+ 37
    Luka Potočar 18+ 46 TOP 1 10.95 41 31+
    Sebastian Halenke 29+ 14 38 5 9.8 40+ 31+
4   Domen Škofic TOP 1 TOP 1 3.71 29+ 31+
5   Fedir Samoilov 25+ 25 37+ 8 16.84 37+ 30+
6   Satone Yoshida 29+ 14 37+ 8 12.96 40+ 16+
7   Milan Preskar TOP 1 35 19 10.49 34+ 15+
8   Ao Yurikusa TOP 1 38 5 5.74 33+ 15+

Women edit

45 women competed in the event.[27]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, back from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, claimed the gold medal and by doing so also claimed the overall Lead World Cup title. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo claimed silver while USA's Natalia Grossman claimed bronze.[26]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
    Janja Garnbret TOP 1 43+ 8 5.34 47+ 49+
    Chaehyun Seo TOP 1 TOP 1 3.0 36 46
    Natalia Grossman 29+ 10 TOP 1 6.0 37+ 41+
4   Laura Rogora TOP 1 TOP 1 3.0 44+ 39
5   Vita Lukan 34+ 6 43+ 8 8.15 38+ 39
6   Lucka Rakovec 29 15 44 7 10.42 36+ 34+
7   Dinara Fakhritdinova 34+ 6 TOP 1 4.58 35+ 31+
8   Natsuki Tanii 25+ 18 36 28 24.17 34+ 26

References edit

  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China canceled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  2. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  3. ^ "2021 Innsbruck info sheet".
  4. ^ "2021 Villars info sheet".
  5. ^ "2021 Chamonix info sheet".
  6. ^ "2021 Briançon info sheet".
  7. ^ "2021 Kranj info sheet".
  8. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  9. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  10. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  11. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  12. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  13. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  14. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  15. ^ a b "Sean Bailey Wins Gold, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman Get Bronze at World Cup—On a Roll". Climbing. 2021-07-03. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  16. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  17. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  18. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  19. ^ a b "Unreal—Another Gold for Sean Bailey, That's Two In a Row". Climbing. 2021-07-13. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  20. ^ a b c d "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cups Chamonix and Briançon 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  21. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  22. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  23. ^ a b "Briançon Threatens to Crush Team USA Under the Weight of Medals". Climbing. 2021-07-18. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  24. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  25. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  26. ^ a b "Garnbret, Grossman Battle At Climbing's World Cup Lead Finals In Slovenia. Results and Highlights". Climbing. 2021-09-04. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  27. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
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