Wikipedia

Bouldering at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2021 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 22nd season of the competition. Bouldering competitions will be held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 16 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 26 June with the World Cup in Innsbruck. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six bouldering events concluding on 24 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Wujiang in China and Seoul in South Korea.[1][2]

Bouldering
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Salt Lake City (2 times), United States

Innsbruck, Austria
Dates16 April – 26 June 2021
Champions
MenJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman

At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. At the end of the season an overall ranking will be determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Overview edit

Date Location Venue Route-setters* Men Women
April, 16–18   Meiringen, Switzerland Kletterhalle Haslital[3]
  •   Gen Hirashima
  •   Remi Samyn
  •   Laurent Laporte
   Adam Ondra   Janja Garnbret
May, 21-22   Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[4]
  •   Jamie Cassidy
  •   Brad Weaver
  •   Tsukasa Mizuguchi
   Adam Ondra   Natalia Grossman
May, 28–30   Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[4]
  •   Jamie Cassidy
  •   Garret Gregor
  •   Yann Genoux
  •   Flannery Shay-Nemirow
   Sean Bailey   Natalia Grossman
June, 23–26   Innsbruck, Austria Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[5]
  •   Percy Bishton
  •   Manuel Hassler
  •   Romain Cabessut
  •   Garret Gregor
   Yoshiyuki Ogata   Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS   Yoshiyuki Ogata   Natalia Grossman
NATIONAL TEAM   Japan

* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking edit

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men edit

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[6]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1   Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 2. 80 16. 20 4. 55 1. 100
2   Kokoro Fujii 255 4. 55 4. 55 2. 80 3. 65
3   Adam Ondra 200 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — )
4   Sean Bailey 166 13. 26 8. 40 1. 100 47. 0
5   Mejdi Schalck 157 12. 28 2. 80 9. 37 20. 12
6   Tomoa Narasaki 145 ( — ) ( — ) 3. 65 2. 80
7   Nathaniel Coleman 142 5. 51 21. 10 10. 34 6. 47
8   Nicolai Užnik 132 14. 24 11. 31 15. 22 4. 55
9   Alexander Megos 129 8. 40 9. 37 14. 24 12. 28
10   Simon Lorenzi 123.5 29. 1.5 7. 43 12. 28 5. 51
11   Sohta Amagasa 119 6. 47 14. 24 13. 26 15. 22
12   Alexey Rubtsov 114 17. 18 15. 22 11. 31 7. 43
13   Gregor Vezonik 98.5 9. 37 6. 47 24. 7 23. 7.5
13   Anže Peharc 98.5 21. 9.5 5. 51 16. 20 17. 18
15   Jakob Schubert 96.5 23. 7.5 3. 65 ( — ) 14. 24
16   Tomoaki Takata 94.9 3. 65 22. 9 32. 0.9 16. 20
17   Rei Sugimoto 77.5 21. 9.5 17. 18 18. 16 10. 34
18   Manuel Cornu 75.4 11. 31 35. 0.8 7. 43 37. 0.6
19   Colin Duffy 64.5 31. 0.9 13. 26 38. 0.6 9. 37
20   Yannick Flohé 63 19. 13 24. 7 20. 12 11. 31

Women edit

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[7]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1   Natalia Grossman 345 3. 65 1. 100 1. 100 2. 80
2   Janja Garnbret 280 1. 100 ( — ) 2. 80 1. 100
3   Oriane Bertone 235 2. 80 2. 80 4. 55 16. 20
4   Brooke Raboutou 207 9. 37 3. 65 3. 65 8. 40
5   Miho Nonaka 192 7. 43 4. 55 6. 47 6. 47
6   Staša Gejo 173 13. 26 11. 31 5. 51 3. 65
7   Katja Debevec 158 6. 47 8. 40 7. 43 12. 28
8   Futaba Ito 135 ( — ) 7. 43 9. 37 4. 55
9   Akiyo Noguchi 122 4. 55 ( — ) 18. 16 5. 51
10   Mao Nakamura 92 ( — ) 10. 34 14. 24 10. 34
11   Johanna Färber 91.7 31. 0.9 6. 47 34. 0.8 7. 43
12   Jessica Pilz 79 12. 28 5. 51 ( — ) ( — )
13   Franziska Sterrer 78.5 11. 31 21. 95 20. 12 13. 26
14   Vita Lukan 77 5. 51 23. 8 17. 18 ( — )
15   Petra Klingler 74.5 21. 9.5 25. 6 12. 28 11. 31
16   Fanny Gibert 72.5 35. 0.7 9. 37 10. 34 33. 0.8
17   Andrea Kümin 69 8. 40 26. 5 ( — ) 14. 24
18   Kylie Cullen 67.5 25. 5.5 14. 24 16. 20 17. 18
19   Kyra Condie 60 21. 9.5 30. 1 8. 40 21. 9.5
20   Chloe Caulier 58.5 25. 5.5 13. 26 26. 5 15. 22

* = Joint place with another athlete

National teams edit

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[8]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1   Japan 1235.0 2. 298.0 3. 231.0 2. 308.0 1. 398.0
2   United States 1088.0 3. 209.0 1. 265.0 1. 390.0 2. 224.0
3   Slovenia 798.0 1. 312.0 5. 148.0 4. 168.0 3. 170.0
4   France 635.85 4. 156.6 2. 238.75 3. 177.0 8. 63.5
5   Austria 498.25 7. 91.95 4. 204.0 10. 34.8 4. 167.5
6   Germany 403.1 6. 93.5 6. 119.0 5. 108.0 5. 82.6
7   Belgium 215.55 12. 22.0 8. 69.55 7. 51.0 6. 73.0
8   Czech Republic 200.0 5. 100.0 7. 100.0 ( — ) ( — )
9   Italy 190.6 11. 22.95 9. 66.0 9. 45.7 10. 55.95
10   Serbia 173.0 10. 26.0 11. 31.0 7. 51.0 7. 65.0

Meiringen, Switzerland (16–17 April) edit

Men edit

101 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen.[9]

Rank Name Score
1   Adam Ondra 3T3z 10 7
2   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 7 9
3   Tomoaki Takata 1T4z 4 12
4   Kokoro Fujii 1T3z 1 4
5   Nathaniel Coleman 1T3z 2 5
6   Sohta Amagasa 0T3z 0 4

Women edit

70 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen.[10]

Rank Name Score
1   Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 6
2   Oriane Bertone 2T4z 8 10
3   Natalia Grossman 2T4z 10 10
4   Akiyo Noguchi 0T3z 0 7
5   Vita Lukan 0T2z 0 3
6   Katja Debevec 0T2z 0 6

Salt Lake City I, United States (21–22 May) edit

Men edit

55 athletes attended the first World Cup in Salt Lake City.[11]

Rank Name Score
1   Adam Ondra 4T4z 8 7
2   Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 4 5
3   Jakob Schubert 3T3z 4 4
4   Kokoro Fujii 3T3z 12 7
5   Anže Peharc 1T3z 2 8
6   Gregor Vezonik 1T2z 2 2

Women edit

50 athletes attended the first World Cup in Salt Lake City.[12]

Rank Name Score
1   Natalia Grossman 4T4z 15 14
2   Oriane Bertone 3T4z 7 7
3   Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 4 3
4   Miho Nonaka 3T3z 7 6
5   Jessica Pilz 1T3z 3 6
6   Johanna Färber 1T2z 1 8

Salt Lake City II, United States (28–30 May) edit

Men edit

55 athletes attended the second World Cup in Salt Lake City.[13]

Rank Name Score
1   Sean Bailey 2T4z 9 11
2   Kokoro Fujii 1T4z 9 12
3   Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 3
4   Yoshiyuki Ogata 0T2z 0 4
5   Zach Galla 0T1z 0 1
6   Maximillian Milne 0T1z 0 2

Women edit

51 athletes attended the second World Cup in Salt Lake City.[14] Natalia Grossman won the competition, becoming the first athlete to best Janja Garnbret in a bouldering World Cup since Meiringen in April 2018, thus ending Garnbret's streak at nine consecutive wins.[15]

Rank Name Score
1   Natalia Grossman 4T4z 4 4
2   Janja Garnbret 4T4z 6 6
3   Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 5 8
4   Oriane Bertone 3T3z 9 5
5   Staša Gejo 3T3z 11 10
6   Miho Nonaka 2T4z 5 9

Innsbruck, Austria (23–26 June) edit

Men edit

110 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck.[16] Because of rain delays and restrictions surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic in Austria, the final round was cut short and only three of the four boulders were used.[17]

Rank Name Score
1   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T2z 7 7
2   Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 2 11
3   Kokoro Fujii 1T1z 2 2
4   Nicolai Uznik 1T1z 2 2
5   Simon Lorenzi 1T1z 10 10
6   Nathaniel Coleman 0T1z 0 2

Women edit

89 athletes attended the second World Cup in Innsbruck.[18] Because of rain delays, the finals were cut short and only the first three of the four boulders in that round were counted towards the results.[17] Miho Nonaka was forced to withdraw from the final after a knee injury she picked up on W4 in the semi-final round.[19][20]

Coverage of the Austrian climber Johanna Färber received criticism from viewers and she described it as "disrespectful and upsetting". The host broadcaster, ORF, issued an apology after the event.[20][17][21]

Rank Name Score
1   Janja Garnbret 3T3z 3 3
2   Natalia Grossman 3T3z 9 9
3   Staša Gejo 1T3z 2 6
4   Futaba Ito 1T2z 3 8
5   Akiyo Noguchi 1T1z 1 1
6   Miho Nonaka DNS

References edit

  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Archived from the original on 2021-08-20. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  2. ^ Burke, Patrick (20 September 2021). "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". inside the games. Retrieved 20 September 2021.
  3. ^ "2021 Meiringen info sheet". Archived from the original on 2021-09-07.
  4. ^ a b "2021 SLC info sheet". Archived from the original on 2021-09-07.
  5. ^ "2021 Innsbruck info sheet". Archived from the original on 2021-09-05.
  6. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  7. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  8. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDERING NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-09-25. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 24 April 2021.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 24 April 2021.
  11. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City I (USA) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 23 May 2021.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City I (USA) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 23 May 2021.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City II (USA) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 5 June 2021.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City II (USA) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 5 June 2021.
  15. ^ Berry, Natalie (May 31, 2021). "IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report". UKC. Retrieved June 1, 2021.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 3 July 2021.
  17. ^ a b c ""Inappropriate" coverage row and rainstorms mar IFSC World Cup at Innsbruck". www.insidethegames.biz. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 3 July 2021.
  19. ^ "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  20. ^ a b "Grossman and Garnbret Battle, Broadcaster Apologizes for Sexualizing Coverage". Climbing. 27 June 2021. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
  21. ^ IFSC. "IFSC Twitter page". Twitter. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
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