La Societé des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes, known as La Sape (adherents sapeurs) is a Congolese sartorial subculture.
It emerged as an expression of civil disobedience during the repressive regime of Mobutu Sese Seko.[1] In the 1960s and 1970s, the fiercely Africanist self-styled "Father of the Nation" promoted authenticité as an official state ideology of Zaire to foster a sense of national identity at the expense of foreign and tribal culture:
Authenticité has made us discover our personality by reaching into the depths of our past for the rich cultural heritage left to us by our ancestors. We have no intention of blindly returning to all ancestral customs; rather. We would like to choose those that adapt themselves well to modern life, those that encourage progress, and those that create a way of life and thought that are essentially ours.[2]
Western styles of attire – most notably the suit, shirt, and tie – were accordingly proscribed to symbolise the break with the country's colonial past, and men were forced to wear a Mao-style tunic known as an abacost (derived from the French à bas le costume, or "down with the suit").[3] On April 24, 1990, facing mounting internal demands for liberalisation and international isolation following the end of the Cold War, Mobutu declared the Third Republic, the ostensible reforms of which included multi-party democracy, the freedom to use traditional forms of address (such as monsieur and madame) and the freedom to wear a suit and tie. This prompted an unprecedented mass adoptation of their threadbare but elaborate clothes of the 1960s by the Congolese people, and in response beatings by the henchmen of the regime of anyone caught wearing a suit.[4] The government of the Republic of the Congo were similarly hostile to the subculture, but later relaxed their attitude towards the sapeurs, with President Denis Sassou Nguesso regularly eschewing military fatigues for an Yves Saint Laurent suit on trips abroad.[5]
In a March 1988 article for The New York Times, journalist James Brooke dates the emergence of la sape as a distinct subculture to the late 1970s.[5] Known also as les Parisiens, the sapeurs of the 1980s were avid readers of the society pages of Paris-based magazines such as Jeune Afrique and Africa Elite, which recounted the bourgeois affairs of the black Parisian social circuit.[5] Although this luxurious scene was inaccessible to ordinary Congolese, its glamour was captured by returning sapeurs, who would fly back from summer sales in Paris with suitcases full of designer clothing, the sale of which would finance their excursions and lifestyle.[5] To avoid the mud from the jungle-bordered Brazzaville streets, Brooke remarked, the emergent sapeurs would hire rickshaw men to transport them over the streets. When this practice was ended by the nominally socialist government of the People's Republic of the Congo, the moped became the vehicle of choice for the discerning sapeur.[5]
Related topics edit
- Bills, a Congolese fashion subculture of the 1950s centered on cowboy iconography
- Dandyism
- Gentlemen of Bacongo
- Papa Wemba
- Swenkas, a group of Zulu men who at the weekends dress elegantly for competition
Footnotes edit
[6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15]
- ^ Jones, Dylan (March 14, 2009). "Look sharp". The Guardian. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ Kabwit, Ghislain C. (September 1979). "Zaire: The Roots of the Continuing Crisis". The Journal of Modern African Studies. 17 (3). Cambridge University Press: 381–407. doi:10.1017/S0022278X00005930. JSTOR 160489. Retrieved January 26, 2010.
{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: date and year (link) - ^ Dunn, Kevin (2003). Imagining the Congo. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. p. 113. ISBN 1403961603.
- ^ Bayart, Jean-François (2005). The Illusion of Cultural Identity. London: Hurst & Co. p. 220. ISBN 1850656606.
- ^ a b c d e Brooke, James (March 17, 1988). "In Congo, Fashion From a Suitcase". The New York Times. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ "Who said men don't like dressing up?". ABS-CBN News. ABS-CBN. Agence France-Presse. October 16, 2009. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ Fox, James. "Pop star, people smuggler, jailbird, demagogue – and all in a coat that cost £15,000". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
{{cite news}}: Text "August 14, 2004" ignored (help) - ^ Weinberg, Anna. "Paradise Is a Fabulous Suit". Colors (64). Benetton Group. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ "Filmmakers' Interview: George Amponsah & Cosima Spender". BBC Four Storyville. BBC. April 1, 2004. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ Schieb, Ronnie (December 20, 2005). "The Importance of Being Elegant". Variety. Reed Business Information. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ Finkelstein, Joanne (1997). "Chic Theory". Australian Humanities Review (5). Retrieved November 28, 2009.
{{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter|month=ignored (help) - ^ Sanders, Edmund (November 28, 2006). "In Congo, designer cheek". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved November 28, 2009.
- ^ "Africa's league of fashionable gentlemen 'sapeurs'". The Times of India. The Times Group. March 13, 2010. Retrieved August 10, 2010.
- ^ McCrummen, Stephanie (March 11, 2010). "To ease the struggles of their daily lives, the sapeurs of Congo look at their labels". The Washington Post. Retrieved August 10, 2010.
- ^ Hardach, Sophie (March 19, 2010). "Flamboyant Congolese bring dandy chic to Paris". Reuters. Retrieved August 10, 2010.
External links edit
- The Congolese Sape – a collection of images by Héctor Mediavilla
- Les sapeurs du Congo-Brazza on YouTube
- "The Importance of Being Elegant" BBC Storyville homepage
- BBC slideshow of images from a fashion show by Congolese immigrants to South Africa
- "Gentlemen Of Bacongo: The Dandies Of Sub-Saharan Africa", blog post by Jezebel illustrated with images from Tamagni's book
- Papa Wemba & Viva La Musica – Enter the Sape – fan overview of Wemba's relationship to la Sape
Category:Fashion aesthetics Category:Republic of the Congo culture Category:Subcultures