Marceline (fabric)

Marceline (sometimes marcelline or merceline) is a type of grain fabric made from taffeta-silk but more pronounced than plain taffeta. Its main usage is in the linings in hatmaking or in women's dresses but there are other applications.[1][2][3][4]

Marceline cap illustrated in Costume Parisien, 1807.

Its threads are crossed "in groups in a two-pass report, are individually introduced in the meshes of the heights so that they are fixed exactly and parallel in their crosses with the weft".[5]

The 1893 US Supreme Court case Cadwalader v. Wanamaker addressed the question of whether marcelines or "chinas" should be considered trimmings for tariff purposes. It was classified by the US as a sheer fabric.[6]

In "Journées de Lecture"('On Reading Ruskin' English) Marcel Proust recalls having a marceline quilt in his room " jonchée de couvre-pieds en marceline...".[7][8]


  1. ^ Matthews, Kolanjikombil (2018-01-31). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Volume 3. CRC Press. ISBN 978-0-429-89329-2.
  2. ^ Picken, Mary Brooks (2013-04-16). The Language of Fashion - Dictionary and Digest of Fabric, Sewing and Dress. Read Books Ltd. ISBN 978-1-4474-9361-7.
  3. ^ Labour, Coercion, and Economic Growth in Eurasia, 17th-20th Centuries. BRILL. 2012-09-28. ISBN 978-90-04-23645-5.
  4. ^ Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013-09-17). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. ISBN 978-1-60901-535-0.
  5. ^ "About: Marceline". Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  6. ^ Commission, United States Tariff (1926). Broad-silk Manufacture and the Tariff. U.S. Government Printing Office.
  7. ^ "MARCELINE : Définition de MARCELINE". Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  8. ^ Proust, Marcel (2008-08-07). Days of Reading. Penguin UK. ISBN 978-0-14-196339-6.