Craig Luebben (20 May 1960 – 9 August 2009) was an American rock climber and author.

Craig Luebben
BornMay 20, 1960
Iowa
DiedAugust 9, 2009
North Cascades, Washington State
OccupationRock Climber, Mechanical Engineer, Educator, Writer and Mountain Guide
Alma materUniversity of Colorado
Period1991–2006
Genreessays, journals, histories, scientific papers, biographies, textbooks
SubjectMountaineering, rock climbing
Notable worksRock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
SpouseSilvia Luebben (1997–his death)
ChildrenGiulia
Website
www.craigluebben.com

Luebben was born in Iowa and moved to Colorado at age seven, where he cultivated his love of the outdoors.[1] A climber since the early 1980s, Luebben wrote a number of climbing-oriented books, and designed the Big Bro [pl] wide-crack climbing protection device–now manufactured by Trango–as part of obtaining his degree in Mechanical Engineering from Colorado State University,[2] and was a senior contributing editor for Climbing Magazine.

Luebben made many first ascents in the United States and abroad, including China, Madagascar, Puerto Rico and France.[2] Luebben was a mountain guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and instructor.[2][3][1]

"Craig was a 5.12 climber in that he could likely onsight any 5.12 on the planet."[4]

Death

edit
 
Mount Torment in North Cascades National Park

Craig Luebben was killed on August 9, 2009, in an accident while climbing on Mount Torment in the Cascade Range of Washington.[5] A car-size block of ice calved off, taking Craig with it and resulting in a 30-foot fall. While not struck by the initial block, Craig was pelted by debris as he hung from his rope.[6]

After his death, the American Mountain Guides Association established the Craig Luebben Education Fund in his honor to provide scholarships for new mountain guides.[3]

Writing

edit

Luebben's 2004 book, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, won that year's National Outdoor Book Award (Instructional).

Published works

edit
  • A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock, Horsetooth Press, 1991, ASIN B000RJ3RFY
  • Knots for Climbers (1st & 2nd editions), The Globe Pequot Press, 1995 and 2001, ISBN 0-7627-1218-X
  • Advanced Rock Climbing, co-authored with John Long, The Globe Pequot Press, 1997, ISBN 1-57540-075-8
  • How to Climb: How to Ice Climb!, The Globe Pequot Press, 1999, ISBN 1-56044-760-5
  • How to Rappel!, The Globe Pequot Press, 2000, ISBN 1-56044-759-1
  • Go Climb!, North South Publications, 2001, ISBN 0-7566-1943-2
  • Betty And The Silver Spider: Welcome To Gym Climbing, Sharp End Publishing, 2002, ISBN 1-892540-22-3
  • Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, The Mountaineers Books 2004, ISBN 0-89886-743-6
  • Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, The Mountaineers Books, 2006, ISBN 1-59485-006-2

References

edit
  1. ^ a b "AAC Publications - Craig Luebben, 1960-2009". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  2. ^ a b c "Craig Luebben Memorial Service". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  3. ^ a b "The Craig Luebben Education Fund". AMGA. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  4. ^ Shanti Pack, Pamela. "Craig's List". Archived from the original on 2012-05-01.
  5. ^ Sedro-Woolley, Mailing Address: 810 State Route 20; Us, WA 98284 Phone: 360 854-7200 Contact. "Mountaineering Fatality in North Cascades National Park - North Cascades National Park (U.S. National Park Service)". www.nps.gov. Retrieved 2024-07-23.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  6. ^ MacDonald, Dougald. "Craig Luebben Killed in North Cascades". Archived from the original on 24 April 2012. Retrieved 9 July 2012.
edit