Sorato Anraku (安楽 宙斗, Anraku Sorato, born November 14, 2006) is a Japanese rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, and competition lead climbing and competition bouldering in particular. In 2023, Anraku became the first climber to win both the Lead Overall World Cup and Boulder Overall World Cup in his debut senior season.[3] He also won gold in the combined boulder and lead event at the 2022 Asian Games, held in October 2023.[4]
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | November 14, 2006 Yachiyo, Chiba, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Education | Yachiyo High School[1][2] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 168 cm (5 ft 6 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | First male to win both the overall bouldering and lead IFSC World Cup titles in their debut season | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career edit
Before 2023, Anraku competed in youth international competition climbing. In 2023, Anraku made his senior international competition climbing debut, opening the year with a fifth-place finish in bouldering at the Hachioji World Cup. He went on to win his first medal by placing second in the bouldering discipline at the Salt Lake City World Cup in May.[5] This was followed by his first-place bouldering finish at the Innsbruck World Cup in June, where he was also given the men's Boulder 2023 title.[6][7]
He went on to claim his first senior World Cup lead medal with a bronze in Chamonix in July, followed by a first-place finish at Briançon later in July, and second place at Bern in August, both in lead.[8][9][10] He followed this up with two more first-place finishes at the Koper and Wujiang World Cups, both in September, following which he was also given the men's Lead 2023 title.[11] In October, shortly after his performance in Wujiang, he also won gold in the men's combined sport climbing event at the 2022 Asian Games in Hangzhou, in his Asian Games debut.[12] He participated in the 2023 Asian Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier, held in Jakarta in November, where he placed first in the men's competition and qualified for the 2024 Summer Olympics.[4][13]
Rankings edit
IFSC Climbing World Cup edit
| Discipline | 2023 | 2024 |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | |
| Bouldering | 1 | |
| Bouldering & Lead | 1 |
IFSC Climbing World Championships edit
Youth
| Discipline | 2021 Youth B |
2022 Youth A |
|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 2 | 3 |
| Lead | 1 | 1 |
Senior
| Discipline | Bern 2023 |
|---|---|
| Lead | 2 |
| Bouldering | 4 |
| Bouldering & Lead | 4 |
Number of medals at the IFSC Climbing World Cup edit
Bouldering edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 2 | 0 | 3 |
Lead edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 3 | 0 | 2 | 5 |
See also edit
References edit
- ^ "千葉・八千代高校の安楽宙斗選手 パリ五輪スポーツクライミング出場決定". チバテレ+プラス (in Japanese). 13 November 2023. Retrieved 16 April 2024.
- ^ 安楽宙斗 Japanese Olympic Committee (in Japanese)
- ^ "Sorato Anraku and Ai Mori win as Japan dominates lead World Cup meet". The Japan Times. 2023-09-26. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ a b Mikkelsen, Sebastian (October 6, 2023). "Asian Games 2023: Japan's 16-year-old Anraku Sorato strikes gold in men's boulder & lead competition". Olympics. Retrieved October 11, 2023.
- ^ McCarvel, Nick (22 May 2023). "Sport climbing: Narasaki Tomoa soars to boulder title at Salt Lake World Cup, Veddriq Leonardo wins in speed". Olympics. Retrieved 12 October 2023.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (2023-06-17). "Japan Continues to Dominate Men's Boulder World Cup - Sorato Anraku Wins 2023 Season". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ "INNSBRUCK CROWNS ANRAKU SORATO AS NEW BOULDER KING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ "ANRAKU MAKES HISTORY AS PILZ COMPLETES GOAL OF LEAD SERIES WIN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ de Villiers, Ockert (10 September 2023). "IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Koper 2023: Janja Garnbret and Anraku Sorato wins lead titles". Olympics. Retrieved 12 October 2023.
- ^ "Ai Mori captures Japan's first lead world championship". The Japan Times. 2023-08-07. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ Mikkelsen, Sebastian (24 September 2023). "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Japan dominates final event, as Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato claim lead titles". Olympics. Retrieved 12 October 2023.
- ^ "Japan teen Anraku wins Asiad Men's Combined Sport Climbing_The 19th Asian Games Hangzhou". www.hangzhou2022.cn. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ "IFSC Asian Qualifier: Anraku Sorato and Zhang Yuetong win boulder and lead titles in Jakarta - Results". olympics.com. 2023-11-11. Retrieved 2023-11-11.
External links edit
- JMSCA profile (in Japanese)