Sachi Amma (born September 23, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.
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| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | September 23, 1989 Tochigi Prefecture, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional sport climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 172 cm (5 ft 8 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 53 kg (117 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Lead climbing | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winning the World Cup in 2012 and 2013 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on October 31, 2017. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Biography edit
In 2006 he started competing at the World Cup, in the Lead climbing discipline, and won the Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013. In 2009, 2010 and 2012 he also competed, occasionally, in the Bouldering discipline, with less encouraging results.
He mainly climbs indoor, but he also proved to be one of the strongest rock climbers in the world, by redpointing three routes graded 9a+ (5.15a): Papichulo (Oliana), Pachamama (Oliana), and La Rambla (Siurana).
He has since redpointed one additional 9a+ (5.15a): Realization (Céüse)[1] and two routes graded 9b (5.15b): Soul Mate (Gozen Rock) and Fight or Flight (Oliana),[2] the former becoming Japan's hardest sport climb.[3]
Rankings edit
Climbing World Cup[4] edit
| 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 35 | 18 | 12 | 5 | 3 | 5 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 7 | 30 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | 50 | 79 | - | 21 | 26 | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | 2 | 3 | - | 3 | 3 | - | - |
Climbing World Championships[5] edit
| 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 21 | 4 | 10 | 7 | 3 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup edit
Lead[5] edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2009 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2011 | 4 | 3 | 7 | |
| 2012 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
| 2013 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
| 2014 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Total | 7 | 12 | 10 | 29 |
Rock climbing edit
Redpointed routes edit
9b (5.15b):
9a+ (5.15a):
- Realization – Céüse (FRA) – August 6, 2014 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2001[1]
- La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – November 29, 2012 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué, 2003[6]
- Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – December 17, 2011 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2009[7]
- Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – December 24, 2010 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2008[8]
9a (5.14d):
See also edit
References edit
- ^ a b ZA, Climb (2014-12-02). "Sachi Amma sends 'Biographie/Realization' (9a+/5.15a) – Climb ZA – Rock Climbing & Bouldering in South Africa". Climb ZA. Retrieved 2022-11-18.
- ^ a b "Sachi Amma climbs 9b at Oliana". planetmountain.com. February 2, 2015. Retrieved June 4, 2018.
- ^ a b "Sachi Amma climbs Japan's first 9b". planetmountain.com. 15 January 2018. Archived from the original on June 4, 2018.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ a b IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Amma's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 3, 2012). "Sachi Amma chiude La Rambla". Retrieved December 3, 2012.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (December 17, 2011). "Sachi Anma Pachamama 9a+". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (December 28, 2010). "Papichulo 9a+ per Sachi Amma". Archived from the original on September 18, 2012. Retrieved December 23, 2011.
- ^ desnivel.com, ed. (April 16, 2013). "Sachi Amma y Ethan Pringle encadenan 'Era vella' 9a en Margalef". Retrieved June 10, 2013.
- ^ Björn Pohl (26 August 2009). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "KinematiX by Sachi". Retrieved December 23, 2011.