IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships

The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.

The first event was organized in Arco in 2011, held together with the IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Championships edit

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
Lead Speed
1 2011   Arco 18–19 July X X [1]
2 2012   Paris 12–16 September X [2][3]
3 2014   Gijón 11–14 September X [1] [4][5]
4 2016   Paris 14–18 September X [2] [6][7][8]
5 2018   Innsbruck 10–16 September X [3] [9][10]
6 2019   Briançon[11] 16–17 July X [12]
7 2021   Moscow[13] 15–17 September X
8 2023   Bern 1–12 August
9 2025   Seoul

Classifications and Categories edit

The classifications and categories of the competition changed over the years. Below is the latest version, quoted from the IFSC 2018 rules.

IFSC Classifications and Categories[14]
Classification Category Impairment Body part Level of Impairment
Visual B1 Visual Both Eyes Blind competitors
B2 Competitors having a visual acuity of up to 2/60 and/or a visual field of less than 5%
B3 Competitors having a visual acuity between 2/60 and 6/60 and/or a visual field between 5% and 20%.
Amputee AL-1 (seating) Loss of Limb or Limb deficiency 2 legs Full (No hip, no Joint) or combination of any
AL-2 1 Leg Full, Leg hip joint, Tibia
AU-1 (Arm amputee) 2 or 1 arm - 2 arms: Full or combination of any

- 1 arm: Full (No shoulder, no joint) or amputated of shoulder joint

AU-2 (Forearm amputee) 1 arm - No forearm

- No Hand (Wrist joint existing)

- All fingers (included thumb and no finger joint)

Limited range, power or stability: LRP

(former Neuro and Physiological Disabilities)

RP1 Hypertonia All Permanent spasticity through flexion or extension
Impaired Muscle power All - Spasticity or severe athetosistic movement from 4 limbs

- Moderate to severe trouble of tonus in 4 limbs

Ataxia All Very weak strength and / or severe control problem of upper or torso limbs
RP2 Impaired passive range of movement -Shoulder,

-Junction between shoulder and elbow,

-Torso (Trunk)

Any
Hypertonia All Considerably increase of muscular tonus
Impaired Muscle power All - Trouble of tonus on 2 to 4 limbs

- Moderate to severe trouble of tonus in 2 lower limbs

- Severe troubles of lower limbs creating walking difficulties

Athetosis All - Limited strength and / or moderate control problem of upper or torso limbs

- Correct functional value and negligible control problem of upper or torso limbs

RP3 Impaired passive range of movement -Elbow,

-Junction between Elbow and Wrist

-Wrist

-Waist

-Junction between Waist and Knee

-Knee Junction between Knee and ankle

Any
Hypertonia All Moderate increase but easily noticeable

A large number of RP conditions are neurological disabilities such as MS, stroke survivors, brain damage and so on. There are a number of competitors who climb similarly to an AL/AU athlete due to a condition/accident that has affected the development or use of a limb, placing them in the RP category instead.

When a category has no competitors entered into it, it doesn't run; but when a category has a few competitors (just not enough to officially run) this category gets merged into what is deemed to be a tougher category.[15]

Men's results edit

Speed edit

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[16] Amputee Arm PD   Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD   Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Günther Grausam   Oliviero Bellinzani
Arthritis+Neurological PD   András Szijártó   Matteo Alberghini   Philippe Ribière
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD   Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1   Matteo Stefani   Manuel Cepero Gutierrez   Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2   Simone Salvagnin   Oliviero Bellinzani -
Visual Impairment B3   Domingo Carretero Campon   Ricardo Pérez Amado -

Lead edit

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[17] Amputee Arm PD   Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD   Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD   Mineo Ono   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Alexander Biermann
Arthritis+Neurological PD   András Szijártó   Matteo Masento   Alessio Cornamusini
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD   Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1   Matteo Stefani   Manuel Cepero Gutierrez   Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2   Koichiro Kobayashi   Masayoshi Idomoto   Simone Salvagnin
Visual Impairment B3   Ricardo Pérez Amado   Domingo Carretero Campon -
2012 Amputee Leg PD   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Mineo Ono   Craig Demartino
Arthritis+Neurological PD1   Manikandan Kumar   Raphael Nishimura   Mathieu Besnard
Visual Impairment B1   Nicolas Moineau   Kenji Iwamoto   Matteo Stefani
Visual Impairment B2   Sho Aita   Koichiro Kobayashi   Simone Salvagnin
2014 Amputee Leg PD   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Ronald Dickson   Craig Demartino
Visual Impairment B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Nicolas Moineau   Matteo Stefani
Neurological Physical Disability A   Mathieu Besnard   Manikandan Kumar   Behnam Khalaji
Neurological Physical Disability B   András Szijártó   Alessio Cornamusini   Serge Laurencin
2016 B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Nicolas Moineau   Matteo Stefani
B2   Sho Aita   Mathieu Barbe   Simone Salvagnin
AL-2   Albert Guardia Ferrer   Julien Gasc   Iván Germán Pascual
RP1   Korbinian Franck   Nils Helsper   Connor King
RP2   Nive Porat   Alessio Cornamusini   Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Mathieu Besnard   Gregor Selak
2018 AU-2   Matthew Phillips   Trevor Smith   Maksim Maiorov
B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Matteo Stefani   Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo
B2   Justin Salas   Raul Simon Franco   Fumiya Hamanoue
AL-2   Thierry Delarue   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1   Alessio Cornamusini   Korbinian Franck   Nils Helsper
RP2   Behnam Khalaji   Nive Porat   Manikandan Kumar
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Michael Cleverdon   Gregor Selak
2019 AU-2   Matthew Phillips   Mor Michael Sapir   Kevin Bartke
B1   Koichiro Kobayashi   Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo   Daniil Lisichenko
B2   Sho Aita   Justin Salas   Richard Slocock
B3   Cosmin Florin Candoi   Lux Losey Sail   Motohiro Ejiri
AL-2   Thierry Delarue   Urko Carmona Barandiaran   Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1   Bastien Thomas   Alessio Cornamusini   Korbinian Franck
RP2   Behnam Khalaji   Benjamin Mayforth   Manikandan Kumar
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Mathieu Besnard   Gregor Selak
2021[18] B1   Sho Aita   Razvan Nedu   Jesse Dufton
B2   Fumiya Hamanoue   Richard Slocock   Raul Simon Franco
RP1   Angelino Zeller   Tanner Cislaw   Korbinian Franck
RP2   Mor Michael Sapir   Benjamin Mayforth   Bastien Thomas
RP3   Romain Pagnoux   Mathieu Besnard   Iman Edrisi
AL1   Thierry Delarue   Frederik Leys   Shuhei Yuki
AU2   Matthew Phillips   Brian Zarzuela   Kevin Bartke

Women's Results edit

Speed edit

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[16] Amputee Arm PD   Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD   Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1   Silvia Parente   Dilyara Rakhmankulova -
Visual Impairment B2   Tatiana Panova - -

Lead edit

Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[17] Amputee Arm PD   Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD   Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1   Dilyara Rakhmankulova   Silvia Parente -
Visual Impairment B2   Tatiana Panova - -
2012 Visual Impairment   Dilyara Rakhmankulova   Silvia Parente   Giulia Poggioli
Physical Disability   Frances Brown   Silvia Giacobbo Dal Prà   Valentyna Kurshakova
2014 Amputee Leg PD   Christa Brelsford   Kate Sawford   Esme Harte
Visual Impairment B2   Alessia Refolo   Tanja Glusic   Giulia Poggioli
Neurological Physical Disability A   Elodie Orbaen   Tiziana Paolini   Oriane Moreno
2016 AU-2   Maureen Beck   Melinda Vigh   Lucia Capovilla
AL-2   Lucie Jarrige   Kate Sawford   Esme Harte
RP3   Elodie Orbaen   Oriane Moreno   Aika Yoshida
2018 AU-2   Solenne Piret   Melinda Vigh   Maureen Beck
B2   Abigail Robinson   Whiteny Pesek   Tanja Glusic
AL-2   Lucie Jarrige   Kate Sawford   Emily Stephenson
RP2   Hannah Baldwin   Marlene Prat   Anita Aggarwal
RP3   Aika Yoshida   Momoko Yoshida   Elodie Orbaen
2019 AU-2   Solenne Piret   Maureen Beck   Melinda Vigh
B2   Abigail Robinson   Yumi Ejiri   Edith Scheinecker
AL-2   Lucie Jarrige   Joanna Newton   Jaqueline Fritz
RP2   Hannah Baldwin   Anita Aggarwal   Leanora Volpe
RP3   Aika Yoshida   Momoko Yoshida   Martha Evans

References edit

  1. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  2. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ "World Championships".
  5. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  11. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  12. ^ "IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2019".
  13. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  14. ^ "IFSC Rules 2018" (PDF).
  15. ^ "Paraclimbing Categories: Explained | Team GB Paraclimber". Abbie Robinson. 2018-12-07. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  16. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - SPEED" (PDF).
  17. ^ a b "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - LEAD" (PDF).
  18. ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Moscow 2021". Retrieved 2023-08-12.

External links edit