Ai Mori (森 秋彩, Mori Ai, born September 17, 2003) is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athlete to finish in a podium place in the competition, third in lead. She has won Japan Cup titles in both bouldering and lead disciplines and has multiple IFSC Climbing World Cup podium finishes, including three gold medals in World Cup events in the 2022 season. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori won the gold medal in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championships lead title.
 Mori in 2019 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Born | September 17, 2003 Ibaraki, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 154 cm (5 ft 1 in)[2] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | First Japanese climber to win the gold in a World Championships for lead climbing.[1] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 2023-04-14. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career edit
In 2016, Mori won Lead Japan Cup, becoming the youngest winner of the competition at age 12.[3] She has repeated as the national lead champion in 2018, 2020, 2021, and 2022. Mori also won the Boulder Japan Cup in 2021 and finished second place in 2018.[4]
Mori made her senior international competition climbing debut in 2019, winning two bronze medals in lead and one in bouldering World Cups.[5][6][7][8] Later that year, at age 15, she placed third in the lead category at the IFSC Climbing World Championships,[9] becoming the youngest Japanese climber to medal at the World Championship. Akiyo Noguchi had held the previous record with her 2005 bronze medal in lead at age 16.[10][11] In November and December 2019, Mori finished fifth in the combined category at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse, France. However, Japan had already filled its athlete quota for the 2020 Olympic Games, so Mori did not compete at the Games despite finishing in qualifying places.[12]
In September 2022, Mori took first place at the World Cup event in Koper, Slovenia,[13] finishing ahead of second-place finisher Janja Garnbret, who had won all four lead World Cups of the season coming into Koper.[14] Mori was competing in her first World Cup event of the year, and her first international event of any kind since the 2020 Olympic qualifying event in 2019.[15] She followed this up with first-place finishes in another two World Cups events, at the lead event in Edinburgh, Scotland,[16] and the season-ending combined boulder and lead event in Morioka, Japan.[17]
In 2023, Mori took part in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and became the world champion in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a world title in the discipline.[18] She also qualified for the 2024 Olympics by placing third in the combined event.[19]
Rankings edit
World Cup edit
| [20] | 2019 | 2022 |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 6 | 11 |
| Bouldering | 20 | - |
| Speed | - | - |
| Combined | 10 | - |
World Championships edit
| Discipline[21] | ||
|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 2023 | |
| Lead | 3 | 1 |
| Bouldering | 31 | 6 |
| Speed | 60 | - |
| Combined | 6 | 3 |
World Youth Championships edit
| Discipline[21] | ||
|---|---|---|
| 2017 Youth B |
2018 Youth B | |
| Lead | 1 | - |
| Bouldering | 7 | 20 |
| Speed | 43 | 44 |
| Combined | 2 | - |
Asian Youth Championships edit
| [21] | 2017 Youth B |
2018 Youth B |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 2 |
| Bouldering | 3 | 4 |
| Speed | 5 | 20 |
Japan Cup edit
| [22] | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 12 | 2 | 1 | 1 | - | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 11 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 4 | 4 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 11 | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 3 | 8 | - | 1 | 1 |
World Cup podiums edit
Lead edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2022 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2023 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| Total | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
Bouldering edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
Combined (Boulder & Lead) edit
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2022 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 |
References edit
- ^ "Lead Records Broken by Mori and Schubert in Bern". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 6 August 2023.
- ^ "Ai Mori's profile on 8a.nu". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "第30回リードジャパンカップ2016 女子は12歳の森秋彩が歴代最年少優勝、男子は是永敬一郎が念願の初優勝！" (in Japanese). 14 June 2016. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ "森 秋彩 Ai Mori". Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ "Janja Garnbret Wins Fourth Straight Boulder World Cup". Gripped Magazine. 6 May 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Lead World Cup Villars 2019 - Report". UKClimbing. Archived from the original on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Cup Villars 2019 - Lead Finals". YouTube. Retrieved 22 August 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Cup Wujiang 2019 - Bouldering Finals". YouTube. Retrieved 22 August 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji 2019 - LEAD Finals". YouTube. Retrieved 22 August 2019.
- ^ "１５歳・森秋彩、銅 野口啓代超え日本勢最年少表彰台で東京五輪望み「気持ちは前向き」" (in Japanese). Sports Hochi. 16 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "Teenage climber Ai Mori earns bronze in women's lead competition at world championships". Japan Times. 16 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 20, 2019.
- ^ Boscoe, Charlie (2 December 2019). "IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse - Report". UKC. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ Burgman, John (3 September 2022). "World Cup Upset; Garnbret Gracious in Defeat; Raboutou Makes Podium. Results". Climbing. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ Burke, Patrick (3 September 2022). "Mori ends Garnbret's IFSC World Cup lead dominance in Koper". inside the game. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ "TROIS FRANÇAIS EN DEMI-FINALE DE LA COUPE DU MONDE DE KOPER !". Planet Grimpe (in French). 2 September 2022. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ Creech, Hayes (12 September 2022). "Ai Mori and Jesse Grupper win lead climbing IFSC World Cup 2022 golds in Edinburgh - Results". Olympics. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
- ^ "Sport climbing: Teenager Ai Mori grabs World Cup gold for Japan in Iwate". Kyodo News. 22 October 2022. Retrieved 22 October 2022.
- ^ "Ai Mori captures Japan's first lead world championship". The Japan Times. 2023-08-07. Retrieved 2023-08-07.
- ^ "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.
- ^ "Ai MORI". IFSC Results Service. Retrieved 5 September 2022.
- ^ a b c d IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Mori's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "Mori's JMSCA profile and rankings". August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
