Disteghil Sar or Distaghil Sar (Urdu: دستاغل سر) is the highest mountain in the Shimshal Valley, part of the Karakoram mountain range in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the 19th-highest mountain on Earth, the 7th-highest in Pakistan, and the first of the high peaks after Shishapangma to be the tallest independent summit of its own subrange. Disteghil sar is a Wakhi language word suggested by the Wakhi people of Shimshal,[2] meaning "above the inner ranch." The mountain has a 3-kilometre-long (1.9 mi) top ridge above 7,400 meters elevation, with three distinct summits: Northwest, 7885 m; Central, 7760 m; and Southeast, 7696m or 7535m.
| Disteghil Sar دستاغل سر | |
|---|---|
 Disteghil Sar seen from space | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 7,885 m (25,869 ft)[1] Ranked 19th |
| Prominence | 2,525 m (8,284 ft)[1] |
| Listing | Ultra |
| Coordinates | 36°19′33″N 75°11′18″E / 36.32583°N 75.18833°E[1] |
| Geography | |
  Disteghil Sar دستاغل سر Pakistan  Disteghil Sar دستاغل سر Disteghil Sar دستاغل سر (Gilgit Baltistan) | |
| Location | Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan region, Pakistan |
| Parent range | Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 9 June 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart of an Austrian team |
| Easiest route | Glacier/snow/ice climb |
| Distaghil Sar | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Simplified Chinese | 迪斯特吉峰 | ||
| |||
Climbing history edit
The first attempt to climb Distaghil Sar was made in 1957 by an English expedition led by Alf Gregory. That team attempted to climb the mountain from the south and the west, they reached 21,300 feet (6,500 m) but were defeated by bad weather.[3] Unfavourable weather also foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge led by Raymond Lambert.[4]
The first succesful ascent was made in 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart who were part of an Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the south face and continued over the southwest ridge to the highest summit.[5][4]
The eastern summit is independent of the main, western, summit and about 100m lower; it was first climbed over the east face in 1980 by a Polish expedition which included Tadeusz Piotrowski. All participants of the expedition reached the summit.[6] It was reascended in 1983.
The highest, western summit has been scaled twice since in 1980 and 1982 over the original route. Two attempts over the daunting north face, in 1988 and 1998, were unsuccessful.
See also edit
References edit
- ^ a b c "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-27.
- ^ "Hispar area expeditions". echidna.rutgers.edu. Archived from the original on 27 April 2008. Retrieved 15 January 2022.
- ^ Davis, Dennis (1958). "Disteghil Sar, 1957". Himalayan Journal. #21: 108–116. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
- ^ a b Stärker, Günther (1960). "Disteghil Sar, 1960". Himalayan Journal. #22: 120–133. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
- ^ Stefan, Wolfgang (1961). "Disteghil Sar, 25,868 feet - The account of the Austrian Karakorum Expedition 1960" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #66 (302): 1–8. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
- ^ Kurczab, Janusz (13 July 2010). "The history of Polish climbing – Karakorum. Cz.I (1969-1980)". wspinanie.pl. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
Sources edit
- Hohe Siebentausender (in German)
- The Himalayan Index
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