Victor Saunders is a British climber[1] and author. He trained as an architect[2] at the Architectural Association School of Architecture in London. His first book, Elusive Summits, won the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature in 1991. He became as a UIAGM/IFMGA ski and mountain guide in 1996 and joined the SNGM (National Syndicate of French Mountain Guides) in 2003. Saunders first reached the summit of Mount Everest in May 2004, and went on to climb it several more times.[3][4] In 2020 he became president of the Alpine Club.[5]
He lives in Les Houches,[6] near Chamonix, France.[7]
Notable climbs edit
The climbs are listed in date order.
- 2017 - Mount Tyree[8]
- 2016 - Sersank Peak[9]
- 2016 - Carstensz Pyramid-Puncak Java
- 2014 - Mount McKinley-Denali
- 2013 - Aconcagua[7]
- 2013 - Chamsen
- 2012 - Mount Elbrus
- 2012 - Dykh-Tau
- 2010 - Everest [10]
- 2007 - Ama Dablam[11]
- 2007 - Everest
- 2006 - Everest[12]
- 2005 - Everest
- 2004 - Ama Dablam[13]
- 2004 - Everest [14][3]
- 1997 - Cho Oyu
- 1996 - Mustagh Ata
- 1995 - Bhutan
- 1995 - Ecuador Volcanoes, Chimborazo and Cotopaxi
- 1994 - Panch Chuli Trek
- 1994 - Hatezan Zom
- 1993 - Bhutan Basingtang
- 1993 - Gondoro La
- 1993 - K2 - Saunders returned from 8000m during rescue operations.
- 1992 - Panch Chuli V - first ascent, with Dick Renshaw, Stephen Sustad & Stephen Venables
- 1992 - Rajramba - New route up SE Ridge with Dick Renshaw, Stephen Sustad & Stephen Venables
- 1991 - Elbrus
- 1991 - Karakoram
- 1991 - Ultar
- 1989 - Kangchuntse, a subsidiary summit of Makalu - First ascent of West Face with Stephen Sustad
- 1988 - Jitchu Drake - First ascent
- 1987 - Golden Pillar of Spantik, Pakistan - First ascent with Mick Fowler
- 1986 - Ushba - West Face Direct
- 1986 - The Icicle Factory and White Wedding Cuillin, Isle of Skye - First ascents, with Mick Fowler
- 1985 - Rimo I - attempt with Stephen Venables
- 1984 - Bojohagur Duanisir - attempt with Phil Butler
- 1978 - Eiger - North Face in winter, with Stevie Haston[15]
- 1978 - Shield Direct, Ben Nevis - the first route on Ben Nevis to be graded VI
Publications edit
- Elusive Summits: Four Expeditions in the Karakoram, 1990
- Trekking and Climbing in the Andes (Trekking and Climbing Guides), 2002, by Kate Harper, Val Pitkethly and Victor Saunders
- Alpes Occidentales: Trekking y Alpinismo, 2002, by Victor Saunders and Hilary Sharp
- Himalaya: The Tribulations of Mick & Vic co-written with Mick Fowler, which won the Grand Prize at the Passy International Mountain Book Festival, 2015
- No Place to Fall: Superalpinism in the High Himalaya, 2017
- Structured Chaos: The Unusual Life of a Climber, Vertebrate Publishing, 2021
See also edit
- List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
- Saunders occasionally leads commercial trekking and climbing expeditions, such as to K2 in 2023.
References edit
- ^ Beaumont, Peter; Douglas, Ed (21 May 2006). "Has mighty Everest been reduced to a playground?" – via www.theguardian.com.
- ^ "Bonington's last big challenge: the secret summit of Tibet". The Independent. 26 January 1998. Archived from the original on 17 August 2022.
- ^ a b "Himalayan Database Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley".
- ^ "Join Cooperative Activities".
- ^ Travers, Emma (28 January 2020). "International winter climbing meet attracts top ice climbers". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 29 June 2020.
- ^ Pfanner, Eric (13 July 2012). "A Blinding Rush of Snow Leaves Tragedy in the Alps". New York Times.
- ^ a b "Victor Saunders | Guide". Adventure Consultants.
- ^ "ALE Summits Mount Tyree". 25 February 2017.
- ^ Franz, Derek. "Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders make first ascent of Sersank Peak's north face". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 29 June 2020.
- ^ "Maltese climbers conquer Everest". Times of Malta.
- ^ "Himalayan Database Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley".
- ^ "Himalayan Database Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley".
- ^ "Himalayan Database Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley".
- ^ "168 Summits of Everest from Nepal in 2004: South Side Summits". www.everestnews2004.com.
- ^ Saunders, Victor (2021). Structured Chaos: The Unusual Life of a Climber. Sheffield, United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing.
External links edit
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