![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ab/Duke_Kahanamoku_c1912.jpg/70px-Duke_Kahanamoku_c1912.jpg)
"How would you like to stand like a god before the crest of a monster billow, always rushing to the bottom of a hill and never reaching its base, and to come rushing in for a half mile at express speed, in graceful attitude, until you reach the beach and step easily from the wave?" — Duke Kahanamoku