Free solo climbing
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Free solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a form of free climbing where the climber (the free soloist) forgoes ropes, harnesses and other protective gear while ascending and relies only on his or her physical strength, climbing ability, and psychological fortitude to avoid a fatal fall. Free solo climbing should not be confused with general free climbing, in which gear is typically used for safety in case of a fall, but not to assist the climb.
Motivations
Reasons for free soloing given by high-profile climbers include the simplicity and speed with which one can climb, for example Alex Honnold's two hour and fifty minute ascent of the 2,200 foot Regular Northwest Face route on Yosemite's Half Dome, a route normally demanding multiple days.[1] Other reasons given are the intense concentration required and, for some, the adrenaline rush. The practice is mostly confined to routes familiar to the climber and whose difficulty lies well within the climber's abilities. However, inherent risks such as loose rocks or sudden change in weather are always present. Some high-profile climbers, including John Bachar and Derek Hersey, have been killed this way. Hersey died on Sentinel Rock in 1993. The challenge of free soloing typically lies in the mental difficulty of staying focused, not in the physical difficulties of the climbing itself.
Practitioners
The sport has produced a number of well-known practitioners, made famous by remarkable photos of a climber totally alone and unprotected on sheer cliffs. One of the most famous is Frenchman Alain Robert ("spiderman"), who has scaled dozens of skyscrapers around the world — a sport known as buildering (not to be confused with bouldering) — and many rock walls, without using any safety equipment.
Some of the driving forces in rock climbing and free soloing from 1900 to today are: Hansjörg Auer, John Bachar, Henry Barber, Peter Croft, Steph Davis, Derek Hersey, Alexander Huber, Dan Osman, Dave MacLeod, Bill Denz, Tobin Sorenson, Dean Potter, Alex Honnold, Andreas Proft, Ueli Steck, Paul Preuss, Kevin Jorgeson, Patrick Edlinger, Michael Reardon, Alain Robert, Catherine Destivelle, Dennis "Tank" George Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla, Katie Brown (Rock Climber) and Renaldo Clarke.
Safer alternatives
Less risky alternatives to free soloing include bouldering, using a rope, climbing at heights low enough that a fall would typically be safe and typically making use of a bouldering mat to cushion a potential fall. Another alternative is deep water soloing, climbing where falling would result in falling into water. Free soloing on sea and lake cliffs is still dangerous due to the combination of risks such as loose rock, tides, submerged boulders, and difficulty of rescue.
See also
References
Further reading
- The High Lonesome: Epic Solo Climbing Stories, John Long. ISBN 1-56044-858-X
- Roberts, Paul; "Risk", Psychology Today, 24 December 1994
- Ament, Pat (2001). A History of Free Climbing in America
External links
- Edge of Oblivion - Free-solo rock climbers feel spiritual lure, Sheila Mulrooney Eldred. Fresno Bee, April 8, 2004
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