Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
 Christian Core on Gioia (8C+), Varazze | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | Italian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 5 October 1974 Savona, Italy | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 177 cm (5 ft 10 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | first-ever person to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| First ascents |
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Updated on 31 October 2017. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career edit
Competition climbing edit
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.[1] He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.[2] In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.[3]
Bouldering edit
He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia, the first-ever boulder graded 8C+ (V16) in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,[4] however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.[5]
Personal life edit
In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
Rankings edit
Climbing World Cup[6]
| 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | 11 | 9 | 17 |
| 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 1 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 8 | 16 | 4 | 4 | 13 | 16 | 54 | 26 | 54 | 32 |
Climbing World Championships[7]
| 1997 | 1999 | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 |
Climbing European Championships[7]
| 1998 | 2000 | 2002 | 2004 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup edit
Bouldering[7]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2000 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2001 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2002 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2003 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2004 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2005 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2006 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 3 | 6 | 4 | 13 |
Rock climbing edit
Redpointed routes edit
Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.
Boulder problems edit
Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulder problems.
8C+/V16:
8C/V15:
- Kimera – Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA) – 2006 – First ascent[11]
8B+/V14:
- Toky – Val Ellero (ITA) – 2009 – First ascent[12]
- New Base Line – Magic Wood (CHE) – 2006[13]
- Beautiful mind – Albarracin (ESP) – 2006 – First ascent[14]
- Ajna – Varazze (ITA) – 2004 – First ascent[15]
- Toguro – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent[16]
- Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)[17]
- Taklimakam plus – Varazze (ITA) – 2002 – First ascent[18]
- Shadowfax – Chironico (CHE) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)[19]
Film edit
See also edit
References edit
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (1 September 1999). "A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (23 October 2002). "A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (11 July 2003). "Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
- ^ "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Core's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (25 February 2008). "La Gioia di Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (6 December 2011). "Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (22 February 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze". Retrieved 23 September 2014.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (6 September 2006). "Una Kimera per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (31 October 2009). "Christian Core apre Toky". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 December 2006). "New Base Line per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (2 March 2006). "Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (1 June 2004). "Christian Core risolve Ajna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (10 May 2003). "'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 February 2003). "Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (7 November 2002). "Taklimakam si allunga". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (19 September 2002). "Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (16 October 2012). "i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV". Retrieved 29 July 2013.
- ^ I Core: My Climbing Family at IMDb
Bibliografia edit
- Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni (ed.). Train!.
External links edit
- Stefanello, Vinicio (14 March 2003). "Christian Core e Dreamtime". PlanetMountain (in Italian). Archived from the original on 3 August 2017. Retrieved 2 December 2023.