Shauna Coxsey

Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber.[2] She is Britain's most successful climber, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in 2016 and 2017.[3][4]

Shauna Coxsey
Shauna Coxsey GBR 2017-08-19 2214.jpg
Coxsey in August 2017
Personal information
Born (1993-01-27) 27 January 1993 (age 27)
Runcorn, Cheshire, England
Height163 cm (5 ft 4 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)[1]
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Highest grade
Known forWinning the Bouldering World Cup Season in 2016 and 2017
Updated on 13 August 2019.

Early lifeEdit

 
Shauna Coxsey climbing at the Boulder World Cup finals in Munich, August 2017

Coxsey was born and raised in Runcorn, Cheshire. She began climbing in 1997 at age four, after being inspired by seeing French climber Catherine Destivelle on television climbing in Mali.[5][6]

CareerEdit

Coxsey is mainly active in competition climbing and has participated in several international competitions in bouldering. She has won the British Bouldering Championships on multiple occasions.[7] In 2012, she won the 9th edition of the competition Melloblocco, and she placed 2nd in the World Cup stages in Log-Dragomer and Innsbruck.[8] She finished third in the 2012 Bouldering World Cup.[7]

In 2013, she sent (ascended cleanly) her first problem graded 8B (V13)  when she climbed Nuthin' But Sunshine in Rocky Mountain National Park.[9] In November, she was appointed one of the UK's first British Mountaineering Council Ambassadors.[10] In 2014, Coxsey placed second overall in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup,[11] and fourth at the Bouldering World Championships in Munich.[12] In the same year, she became the third woman ever to boulder 8B+ (V14) when she topped New Baseline in Magic Wood near Chur, Switzerland.[13] In 2015 she won the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield, UK and took first place at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich, Germany.[7][14][15][16] Coxsey was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire in the 2016 Birthday Honours.[17][18][6]

In late 2016, she suffered a shoulder injury, preventing her from competing in that year's Bouldering World Championships[8] despite topping the overall rankings in the Bouldering World Cup,.[19] She won four IFSC Climbing World Cups in Meiringen (SUI), Kazo (JPN), Innsbruck (AUT) and Sheffield (UK). At the World Cup in Munich (GER) she placed second.[7] In 2017, she again won four Bouldering World Cup stages,[8] in Meiringen (SUI), Kazo (JPN), Mumbai (IND) and Vail (USA). In Munich (GER) she again placed second and secured the overall 2017 title.[3][7] In August 2019, Coxsey won two bronze medals at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Hachioji, Japan, in bouldering and the combined event. During the finals of the combined event she set a British women's speed climbing record of 9.141s, securing second place in the speed component of the combined ranking by winning races against Futaba Ito and Miho Nonaka before losing to Aleksandra Miroslaw. Additionally, by reaching the finals of the combined event, she secured a qualification spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.[20]

RankingsEdit

IFSC Climbing World Cup[3]Edit

Discipline 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Lead - - - - - - - 30 - -
Bouldering 38 19 3 4 2 2 1 1 9 10
Speed - - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - 3 - -

Climbing World ChampionshipsEdit

Youth[8]

Discipline 2008
Youth B
2009
Youth A
Lead 9 19

Adult[8]

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Bouldering 16 - 4 - - 3
Lead - - - - - 17
Speed - - - - - 41
Combined - - - - - 3

Number of medals in the Climbing World CupEdit

Bouldering[8]Edit

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 3 3
2013 1 2 3
2014 2 3 1 6
2015 1 3 4
2016 4 2 6
2017 4 2 6
2018 0
2019 1 1 2
Total 11 12 7 30

Outdoor boulderingEdit

Coxsey is the first British woman to climb the V12, V13, and V14 grades.

V14 (8B+):

  • New Base Line – Magic Wood (SWI) – 12 July 2014 – First female ascent of Bernd Zangerl's Boulder (2002)[21]


V13 (8B):

ReferencesEdit

  1. ^ "Shauna Coxsey". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on November 2017.
  2. ^ "Tokyo 2020 Olympics: British climber Shauna Coxsey confirms bid to compete at Games". BBC Sport. 8 October 2017. Retrieved 8 October 2017.
  3. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  4. ^ Coxsey, Shauna; Fiell, Clem; Kenny, Stuart (7 December 2018). "I Never Leave Without... My Pillow from Home | Shauna Coxsey, Professional Climber". Amuse. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
  5. ^ Coxsey, Shauna (10 April 2017). "The Paywall". Shauna Coxsey's blog. Archived from the original on January 2018.
  6. ^ a b Anderson, Maria. "Podium Dreams: Two-Time Bouldering World Champ Shauna Coxsey Guns for the Olympics". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
  7. ^ a b c d e "Shauna Coxsey". Red Bull. Retrieved 6 August 2019.
  8. ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Coxsey's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  9. ^ Chris Parker (27 June 2013). "Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine – V13". rockandice.com. Retrieved 27 June 2013.
  10. ^ "Inspirational climbers become BMC Ambassadors". thebmc.co.uk.
  11. ^ "Shauna Coxsey Runner-up in IFSC Climbing World Cup". ifsc-climbing.org.
  12. ^ "Results of the IFSC World Championships Munich 2014 – Boulder". ifsc-climbing.org.
  13. ^ "Shauna Coxsey sets a New Baseline for Britain". thebmc.co.uk.
  14. ^ "Landman and Coxsey crowned new British bouldering champions". The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on 8 August 2019.
  15. ^ "BMC British Bouldering Championships - results" (PDF). The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 August 2019.
  16. ^ "2015 Munich Bouldering World Cup – Results". OnBouldering.com. Archived from the original on 10 August 2019.
  17. ^ "No. 61608". The London Gazette (Supplement). 11 June 2016. p. B17.
  18. ^ The Queen's Birthday Honours 2016, Cabinet Office, 10 June 2016, retrieved 10 June 2016
  19. ^ McCracken, Steven (26 September 2016). "Ondra Retains Crown at 2016 Paris World Championships". Vertical Gear.
  20. ^ Dream week for Shauna Coxsey: two bronze medals and Olympic quota place, The British Mountaineering Council, 20 August 2019
  21. ^ "Shauna Coxsey climbs New Base Line, third female V14 ever". OnBouldering.com. 12 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  22. ^ "Shauna Coxsey climbs Ropes of Maui". OnBouldering.com. 7 April 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  23. ^ "One Summer in Paradise, another 8B for Coxsey". OnBouldering.com. 4 July 2014. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  24. ^ Duncan Campbell (April 2014). "Shauna Coxsey Climbs 2nd 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  25. ^ Björn Pohl (June 2013). "VIDEO: Shauna Coxsey climbs Nuthin' but sunshine, 8B". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 2 May 2016.

External linksEdit