File:Tröja, 1610 cirka - Livrustkammaren - 100661.tif

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Tröja av röd guldbrokad, buren av Gustav II Adolf som tonåring, ca 1610.English: Doublet of red gold brocade, worn by Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden as a teenager, ca. 1610.   (Wikidata search (Cirrus search) Wikidata query (SPARQL)  Create new Wikidata item based on this file)
Artist
Unknown authorUnknown author
Photographer
Title
Tröja av röd guldbrokad, buren av Gustav II Adolf som tonåring, ca 1610.
English: Doublet of red gold brocade, worn by Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden as a teenager, ca. 1610.
Original caption
Note: For documentary purposes the original description has been retained. Factual corrections and alternative descriptions are encouraged separately from the original description.
Tröja, 1610 cirka.
Nyckelord: Föremålsbild, Kläder, Jacka
Description
Svenska: Material: Sannolikt tillverkat i Italien, lampas, broché. Röd botten med flotterande tunnare inslag av guldwire. Mönster: Tre varierande typer av blomsterkvistar, alla med en större och tre mindre slingrande blommor och mindre strödda lövformationer. Röd mönsterkontur. Motiven vävda i gulrosa, grönt, vitt och gult, samt guldtråd (både dragen wire och tråd med lan kring kärna av gult silke). Rapport: höjd 253-257 mm, bredd 137 mm
Manströjan är skuren med betonad spets i midjan. Den knäpps rakt ner hela vägen mitt fram, med 30 knapphål för små snörmakeriknappar. I ryggen är tröjan rakt avskuren. Den har en ståndkrage som är högst mitt bak och som blir lägre fram där den knäppes, urspr. med 2 knappar och 2 tränsar. Runt midjan har tröjan 12 skört som alla i överkanten försetts med tränsade hål för fästande av byxorna genom dekorativa rosetter eller band. Ärmarna är långa, skurna i vinkel och med 200 mm långa sprund vid handleden där de knäpps med 11 knapphål. Över axeln har ärmarna axelkarmar. Tröjan är invändigt fodrad med brunröd sidentaft. Tröjan har mellanfoder samt planchett eller styvnad framtill i midjepartiet. För att ytterligare kunna fixera plagget har man på insidan på varje sida intill knäppningen fram sytt fast två små tampar som möts i vinkel och där försetts med ett snörhål varigenom en snodd kunnat dragas för att knyta samman styckena. Utefter sömmar och kanter har parallella, 3 mm breda, guldsnoddar sytts. Sålunda inramas knäppningen fram liksom kragen, ärmarnas bakre och främre sömmar samt markeras ryggens mitt och axelsömmen. Axelkarmarnas uppklippta tungor har kantmarkering av en smal snodd.

Mått:

  • Framstycke längd 435 mm (utan skört)
  • Ryggstycke längd 380 mm, bredd 460 mm
  • Axel 155 mm
  • Ärmlängd 660 mm, ärmsprund 200 mm
  • Krage höjd bak 55 mm
  • Axelkarm bredd 60 mm
  • Midjemått c 930 mm
  • Knäppning med 30 knappar och knapphål, i ärmsprundet 11 knapphål.
English: Fabric: Silk lampas with gold brocade, probably Italian. Red ground with thin hints of gold wire in the weft. Pattern: Three different types of winding floral branches, each with one large and three smaller blooms, and small strewn leaves and flowers. The motifs are outlined in red. The motifs are woven in yellow-rose, green, white and yellow, and gold wire, both drawn metal wire and filé (wire wrapped around a core of yellow silk). Repeat: height 253-257 mm, width 137 mm.

The doublet is cut in a deep point at the front waist. It closes down the front with 30 buttonholes for small thread-wrapped buttons. The doublet back waist is cut straight across. The collar is higher at the center back and lower in front where it originally fastened with 2 buttons and 2 loops. Around the waist are 12 doublet skirts or tabs with worked eyelets at the top for attaching the doublet to the breeches with points or ribbon bows. The sleeves are shaped and have a 200 mm long slit at the wrist where they close with 11 buttonholes. The shoulders have tabbed wings.

The doublet is lined with brownish-red taffeta. The doublet has been padded to add stiffness to the waist. To further secure the garment, two small straps with worked eyeletss are sewn on each front piece next to the button fastenings. These straps meet at an angle and a lace fastened through them could be pulled to tie the pieces together.

The seams and edges are trimmed with parallel 3 mm wide gold cord braids. Similar braids trim the collar, the rear and front seams of the sleeves, and the center back and shoulder seams. The individual tabs of the shoulder wings are connected with narrow gold cord.

Metrics:

  • Front length of 435 mm (17.12 in) (without skirts)
  • Back length 380 mm (14.96 in), width 460 mm (18.11 in)
  • Shoulder 155 mm (6.10 in)
  • Sleeve length , sleeve opening 200 mm (7.87 in)
  • Collar height (rear) 55 mm (2.16 in)
  • Shoulder wing 60 mm (2.36 in) wide
  • Waist circumference 930 mm (36.61 in)
  • Fastens with 30 buttons and buttonholes at the front, 11 buttonholes at the sleeve openings.
Date circa 1610
date QS:P571,+1610-00-00T00:00:00Z/9,P1480,Q5727902
Dimensions
  • length: 435 mm (17.12 in)
    dimensions QS:P2043,435U174789
    (framstycke exkl skört)
  • length: 380 mm (14.96 in)
    dimensions QS:P2043,380U174789
    (ryggstycke)
  • width: 460 mm (18.11 in)
    dimensions QS:P2049,460U174789
    (ryggstycke)
  • length: 660 mm (25.98 in)
    dimensions QS:P2043,660U174789
    (ärm)
  • height: 55 mm (2.16 in)
    dimensions QS:P2048,55U174789
    (krage bak)
institution QS:P195,Q1636176
Accession number
Object history Gustav II Adolf av Sverige Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden
Exhibition history
  • Gustav II Adolf 350 år efter Lützen (1982-1984)
  • Sweden - A Royal Treasury (1988-1989)
  • Gustav II Adolf (1994-1995)
  • Silver, siden, skrud och kista (1999)
  • Gustav II Adolf. Minnesutställning 1932
  • Spanish Costume in the Golden Age (2015) Museo de Santa Cruz in Toledo
Source LSH 100661 (lm_dig15755)
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current09:28, 3 November 2015Thumbnail for version as of 09:28, 3 November 20153,915 × 2,768, 2 pages (31.04 MB)LSHuploadBot{{LSH artwork |artist= |title= {{Title|Tröja av röd guldbrokad, buren av Gustav II Adolf som tonåring, ca 1610.}} |description= {{sv|1=Material: Sannolikt tillverkat i Italien, lampas, broché. Röd botten med flotterande tunnare inslag av guldwire...
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