Broad Peak (Urdu: بروڈ پیک) is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 metres (26,401 ft) above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition.
|Elevation||8,051 m (26,414 ft) |
|Prominence||1,701 m (5,581 ft) |
|Isolation||9.12 km (5.67 mi)|
|Native name||بروڈ پیک (Urdu)|
|Location||Baltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan|
Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China, China–Pakistan border
|First ascent||June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team|
(First winter ascent 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek)
|Easiest route||snow/ice climb|
Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China. It is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".
The mountain has five summits: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m).
The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people. The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters or base camp support.
In 2008 Frenchwoman Élisabeth Revol made a solo ascent of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II within 16 days and without the aid of oxygen as her climbing partner Antoine Girard had fallen ill.
In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to seven more climbers from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012.
On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was the twelfth Eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth Eight-thousander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers. During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski. On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.
In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.
- 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
- 1957 First ascent by an Austrian expedition.
- 1983 First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska.
- 1984 First one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak (solo) by Krzysztof Wielicki in 21.5 hours.
- 1992 On August 4, Enric Dalmau Ferré, Òscar Cadiach, Alberto Soncini and Lluís Ràfols were the first to reach the summit from the Chinese side.
- 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.
- 1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a solo ascent.
- 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.
- 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.
- 2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached to 8000 m.
- 2019 July 14, Shehroze Kashif at the age of 17 became the youngest ever to summit this peak. He also became the youngest Pakistani to reach this altitude
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- „Broad Peak 2007“ Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)
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- Antoine Girard (1 August 2016). "Broad Peak". Retrieved 30 June 2018 – via YouTube.
- "Antoine Girard - Objectif X-Alps 2017". www.antoinegirard.fr. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
- Rizvi, Raza (2019-07-20). "17-Year-Old Becomes the Youngest Pakistani to Summit 8000m Mountain". Retrieved 2019-09-23.
- "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
- "Krystyna Palmowska o zdobyciu Broad Peak" [Krystyna Palmowska on reaching Broad Peak: we got hot on this mountain] (in Polish). Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- "Nanga Parbat, First Ladies-only Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 1986. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- "Kurt Diemberger". Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- Carsolio, Carlos (1995). "On the Brink on Broad Peak". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2020-12-14.
- "Broad Peak 8047m Austrian Karakoram Expedition 1957". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 23 October 2017.
- "Anatoli Boukreev Summits Fourth 8,000-meter Peak in 80 Days". Mountain Zone. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- "Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!". planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
- Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
- Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
- Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
- Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterword by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
- Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN 961-6387-75-8
- Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
- Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak, Polish published by Znak, Cracow 2014, ISBN 978-83-240-2993-8
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